Showing posts with label unesco world heritage site. Show all posts
Showing posts with label unesco world heritage site. Show all posts

Thursday, July 31, 2025

The Vajont Dam and the Battle of Vittorio Veneto: Lessons for Today


The Vajont dam from the parking area The shell like form of the dam Entering the Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto Casa Fighera (Porta San Giovanni) - Serravalle Vittorio Veneto
Left: View from parking area toward Vajont dam with Schiara Group in background.
Center left: The shell like form of the dam from where the control room used to be.
Center right: Entrance to the Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto.
Right: Casa Fighera (Porta San Giovanni) - Serravalle Vittorio Veneto - with bullet marks from WWI.

Vajont Dam


It’s probably not on the top 10 list of the average visitor to Italy or even the top 100 for that matter, but sooner or later if you stay in Italy for any length of time, you’ll hear about the Vajont Dam and the infamous disaster associated with it, and then you’ll want to visit it. It’s an intriguing story—one that still has much to teach us.

On the night of October 9, 1963, over 2,000* people were killed, most by a large wave that crested the Vajont Dam and crashed down into the Piave Valley below, obliterating entire villages. The wave was created when a huge landslide plunged into the lake behind the dam. In many ways, the landslide was predicted and avoidable. But when money interests took over, data and warnings were ignored and suppressed. Today, the Vajont Dam stands as a disused monument to tragedy and hubris. The reservoir was never refilled, and the dam no longer serves any hydroelectric function.

* Plaques at the dam mention 1910 lives lost but many web sites indicate more.

Construction of the Vajont Dam (1957–1960) was a prestige project for SADE and later ENEL, leveraging cutting-edge design to supply power to Italy’s booming industrial north. By 1963, billions of lire, years of labor, political capital, and public expectation had been poured into the dam.

Geologists repeatedly flagged the mountain above the lake behind the dam, called Monte Toc, as unstable with a risk of a catastrophic landslide. Yet ENEL and government authorities suppressed reports and downplayed scientific appraisals. Their late, insufficient remedy was to lower the reservoir level and that came only days before disaster struck. 

The landslide was estimated at 260 million cubic meters. That’s over 100 football stadiums filled to the brim.

Visitors to the dam can just look from a distance, walk on the crest of dam, or take an in-depth tour. We walked on the crest of the dam in a short guided tour and then walked down on our own to where the lake used to be to lay our hands on the dam. The spot we touched on the dam’s wall was still over 100 meters above its true base. We were standing on the landslide fill.

After visiting the Vajont Dam, we wondered:
  • What did we learn?
  • How did we feel?
  • What will we do?
We'll return to these questions later in the post, but on the subject of learning we were intrigued to find out that the criminal proceedings and archival records related to the Vajont disaster have been officially recognized by UNESCO. In 2023, the Archivio Processuale del Disastro della Diga del Vajont (Criminal Proceedings Archive of the Vajont Dam Disaster) was added to UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register.


Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto


On the same day we visited Vajont we also visited the Museo della Battaglia di Vittorio Veneto. This museum, located in the town of Vittorio Veneto, deals with the decisive battle of World War I that took place around the town.

Why was it the decisive battle in WWI? The battle fought from October 24 to November 4, 1918, marked the final offensive on the Italian Front and led to the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The battle effectively ended fighting on the Italian Front and contributed to the end of WWI just days later, with the armistice taking effect on November 4, 1918. The defeat shattered the Austro-Hungarian military and coincided with the political breakup of the empire, as various ethnic groups declared independence.

The defeat of the Austro-Hungarian military was called by the leader of the Italian forces, General Armando Diaz, “Caporetto in reverse”. The Battle of Caporetto, fought from October 24 to December 19, 1917, was a catastrophic defeat for Italy during World War I, where Austro-Hungarian and German forces broke through the Italian lines on the Isonzo front. Over 600,000 Italian soldiers either surrendered or deserted, forcing a chaotic retreat to the Piave River.

We are embarrassed to admit that we didn’t know that much about Caporetto or that Italy also changed sides in WWI. Our history teachers would be disappointed.

The town of Vittoria Veneto got its name in 1866 when two separate communities—Ceneda and Serravalle—were merged following the annexation of the Veneto region to the Kingdom of Italy. The new name honored King Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of unified Italy.

The museum of the battle is located in Ceneda. 

The next morning after visiting the museum, we walked around Serravalle. We passed under Casa Fighera (Porta San Giovanni) and read about the bullet marks on the building that were still clearly visible. While the Battle of Vittorio Veneto was not fought in town (Serravalle), Austrian troops fleeing town continued to fight against the Italian soldiers who chased them together with civilians who had taken up arms. These fights, which resulted in 5 deaths, 14 wounded and the capturing of a thousand prisoners, have left clear machine gun marks on the south-facing façade of Casa Fighera.

After leaving the museum, the same questions popped up about what we learn, what we feel, and what we do after this museum experience, just like they had at the Vajont dam earlier.

One of the people that popped up in the museum is Filippo Tommaso Marinetti (1876 – 1944). We have always liked painters like Giacomo Balla (1871 – 1958) and Umberto Boccioni (1882 – 1916), who were influenced by Marinetti’s Manifesto del Futurismo (1908). By name alone the “manifesto of futurism” sounds attractive and interesting. But upon closer inspection not so much. Two themes and calls to action in the manifesto are the glorification of war as a “purification” and the “sole hygiene of the world,” and urging the demolition of museums and libraries to make way for progress. We would not even be visiting this museum today if Marinetti had his way? Marinetti appeared on an informational panel discussing people who wanted Italy to enter WWI (Interventionalists) and those who didn’t (Neutralists). You can guess what side Marinetti was on.


Beyond the Visit


What did we learn?

We learned that the Vajont dam is an engineering marvel. The Vajont Dam at 262 m (860 ft) was the tallest dam in the world when it was completed in 1960 and still one of the tallest double-curvature arch dams ever built. Its slender, 3.4 m crest width contrasted dramatically with a 27 m base, showcasing an audacious use of space and materials. Rather than relying on sheer mass, the dam’s double-curvature arch transfers water thrust laterally into the canyon walls. This geometry reduces concrete requirements compared to gravity dams and exemplifies advanced structural theory applied in the 1950s.

The dam withstood the wave caused by the landslide and still stands today.

No, the problem wasn’t with the dam but with the behavior of the humans involved. Specifically, with these biases:

  • Sunk-cost fallacy. Decision-makers felt compelled to realize returns on sunk investments: halting the reservoir would have meant admitting costly mistakes and delaying power generation.
  • Confirmation bias. Cherry-picking data that supported safety.
  • Groupthink and political pressure. Engineers and officials rallied around the project’s success to avoid embarrassment.
  • Normalcy bias. The unprecedented wouldn’t actually occur.

In the WWI battle museum, we learned about people and places involved, and why this was a turning point in WWI. The museum takes you back to 1917 and 1918 with audio, visuals and artefacts that give you an idea of the hardships and loss of life due to the battle and the larger war. It’s such an effective way of communicating facts and stories. 

The museum calls the objects on display (in Italian) cimeli. A cimelio is a relic (historical object) or an antique or memento (emotional value). In the museum, the cimeli, what we called artefacts, are both historical and emotional.

Some of the same biases mentioned above as well as others were also at play in this decisive battle and the larger war. For example:

  • Overconfidence Bias. Despite dwindling morale and resources, Austro-Hungarian commanders underestimated the effectiveness of the reorganized Italian forces and their Allied support. This led to poor defensive preparations and a failure to anticipate the scale of the offensive.
  • Groupthink. The high command, dominated by aristocratic and conservative elites, often suppressed dissenting views. Strategic decisions were made in echo chambers, ignoring warnings from field officers about troop fatigue and nationalist unrest within the ranks.
  • Status Quo Bias. Even as the empire was fracturing politically, military leaders clung to outdated strategies and rigid hierarchies. They failed to adapt to the rapidly changing battlefield and political landscape, including the rise of independence movements among Czechs, Slovaks, and South Slavs.
  • Confirmation Bias. Some commanders interpreted temporary Italian setbacks as proof that their own forces were still capable of holding the line, ignoring broader signs of collapse—like mass desertions and logistical breakdowns.
In short, we learned a lot about biases on this visit to the Vajont Dam and the Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto.


What did we feel?

In a word, sad. Sad for the loss of lives. Sad for waste of resources in both the war and dam. Sad for the fact that – in our understanding of the Vajont disaster – that there has never been a formal apology that explicitly admits the decision-making errors or psychological biases behind the collapse. Sad for the fact that wars continue today.

Re: war. Yes, things are better on average as Gapminder is quick to point out, but it sure doesn’t feel like that sometimes.

Also, we felt fear. Fear that we are repeating similar errors and biases in major projects and policies today. Case in point, the US (again) pulling out of UNESCO to cite just one small example relevant to our discussion here. How are we supposed to learn if we can't preserve accounts and records of what has happened and that isn’t supported by one of major world powers?


What will we do?

This is the hardest and most embarrassing question to answer. Well, we created this post, and we are thinking about where we might be operating on biases in our everyday lives.

But the nagging question is what we’ll do going forward? Beyond voting for candidates and supporting initiatives we think are good, are we putting any skin in the game? Will we join with others in causes to prevent another manmade disaster and war?

During our visit to Vajont, we heard a story of how an operator was on the crest of the Vajont dam the evening of the disaster. He was using a searchlight to check the status of the mountain at the moment a wave washed him away. While it’s true that operators often used spotlights and visual inspection to check the movement of the mountain, the operator story seems to be an apocryphal story. However, the image stood out in our minds: someone shining a light in the face of an oncoming 250-meter wall of water. Sometimes, we feel that helpless, that overwhelmed by what is coming at us. What do we do?

Photos


A memorial to a family killed in the disaster Before and after the disaster Looking down from the crest of the dam into the gorge Schematic of the dam
Left: A memorial to a family killed in the disaster
Center left: Before and after the disaster.
Center right: Looking down from the crest of the dam into the gorge,
Right: Schematic of the dam.

Looking up at the crest of the Vajont dam Touching the dam where water used to be Technical data about the dam
Left: Looking up at the crest of the Vajont dam.
Center: Touching the dam where water used to be, but still above the ultimate bottom of the dam by 100 meters or more.
Right: Technical data about the Vajont dam.

The dam from  below Walking on the Vajont dam Walking on the Vajont dam
Left: The dam from below.
Center and right: Walking on the Vajont Dam, Italy.

Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova al Colomber - inside Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova al Colomber - outside
Left: Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova al Colomber - inside. (Vajont Dam)
Right: Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova al Colomber - outside. (Vajont Dam)


Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto - artefact Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto - artefact
At the Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto - examples of cimeli (war items).

A room in Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto A room in Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto
Examples of rooms in the Museum of the Battle of Vittorio Veneto.

Propaganda poster againt the Austro-Hungarian The Interventionists and the Neutralists of WWI
Left: Propaganda poster against the Austro-Hungarian.
Right: The Italian Interventionists and the Neutralists in World War I.



Thursday, March 6, 2025

We Be Those People – Airport Rental Car Dropoff to Bergamo Walk


A sign on the outskirts of Bergamo near Via Zanica Bergamo Sign with Bègrhem and UNESCO designation A building on Via Paglia at night Train tracks in Bergamo
Left: A sign on the outskirts of Bergamo near Via Zanica
Center left: A sign with Bergamo and Bèrghem written on it as well as UNESCO designation.
Center right: A building on Via Paglia watched at night.
Right: Train tracks in Bergamo


We hate waiting. We don’t mind walking. We are those people. So, on a recent trip to Pila/Aosta for skiing we had to return the rental car to the airport. (Yes, we are also those people who don’t own a car or a television.)

A little history: In Bergamo, there are a few rental car places in the city, but the best selection and deals are unfortunately at the airport. Occasionally we’ll rent at the train station in Bergamo because it is convenient, but the choice is limited. Once upon a time, you hopped the bus from Bergamo for a short ride, entered the terminal, went to the rental desk, and then walked to your car at one end of the terminal. It all happened pretty quickly. Then, they moved the rental car fleet to a lot dislocated from the terminal, so you still go to the terminal (usually) and then take a bus to get your car. It is decidedly not convenient timewise because the rental car buses don’t seem to run frequently.

Back to this trip: we dropped the car off and it was 5:45 pm with a pretty dusk sky and huge puffy clouds. We were in long line of people waiting for the rental car “navetta” to take us to the airport. From the airport, we would need to catch another bus to the city. At that point, we thought, screw it, let's walk. It took us about an hour to walk back home to Bergamo city center.

How did we do it? From the airport rental location, head to Parcheggio Centro Galassia. Then, follow Via Zanica into the city.

It’s not a pretty walk, but you learn things about a city you live in when you walk the periphery. First, a city can have some part of it (or all it) be UNESCO-designated site but that doesn’t mean there aren’t some ugly parts. Walking on Via Zanica into the city feels anything but UNESCO.

Second, that parking area Central Galassia had a huge tent and infrastructure (bathrooms) set up. At first, we thought it was a temporary circus. Then, we realized it was a mosque. After some digging around, we learned that as of 2016, there was an agreement that this would be one area for prayer for Muslims in Bergamo. Interesting.

After crossing under the train tracks that Via Zanica (ex SS 591) takes you to, we decided to walk up Via Giorgio e Guido Paglia to reach Via XX Settembre, back in familiar territory. We always thought Via Paglia was a nice street because it has Cercis siliquastrum trees on both sides of the street, which in my mind meant there was some money there. But alas, we saw some sketchy behavior going on. People peeping out behind corners and giving signals to others waiting down a side street. How cute, they are playing hide-in-seek (nascondino)? No. The next day, talking with some friends over a baccalà alla vicentina dinner with a Chardonnay (we are those kind of people), our friends mentioned that there was a recent Striscia la notizia episode dedicated to that area of town. Ah, now it makes sense. This show exposes scams with the help of local reporters. Apparently there is more going on those shady streets of Via Paglia than meets the eye.

Wednesday, January 10, 2024

A Visit to Parco Naquane to See Paleolithic and Neolithic Rock Drawings in the Val Camonica


Rock 50 - side view Rock 1 - Sector T Rock 35 - The running priest - close-up Rock 50 - figure
Naquane Park - view toward Concarena Naquane Park - first view upon entering View from Parco Naquane - east toward Concarena
Top row: Rock carvings in Val Camonica, Italy: rock 50, rock 1 - warriors on horses, rock 35 - running priest, rock 50 - warrior.
Bottom row: View over Capo di Ponte toward Concarena peak. Entrance of the Naquane Park.

Overview


We’ve been up and down this valley half a dozen times and never had the opportunity to stop until today to see the petroglyphs. The what!? The petroglyphs or rock drawings of Valcamonica, recognized by UNESCO in 1979. It was Italy’s first recognized site.

All the rock drawings taken together represents rock carvings/art going back to the 8th-6th millennium BC. Pretty impressive.

Today, we stopped in just one of many parks in the region and spent a few hours. We are at Capo di Ponte, in the Province of Brescia, Italy. Specifically, we are just on the edge of the village and uphill in the Parco nazionale delle incisioni rupestri di Naquane.

This park was created in 1955 by the Archaeological Superintendence of Lombardy, extends over 35 hectares on hills east of the Oglio river, ranging in altitude from 400 to 600 meters above sea-level. There are many paths within the park that allow you to get up close to the engravings.

Some resources to help:

  • Ample parking here: location.
  • Google Street View of the site.
  • The park is ordered by “rocks”. Think of each rock like a huge canvas. (Who knows what other canvases lie beneath the moss and debris?)
  • Up close the “great” rock: Naquane Great Rock, Valcamonica, virtual tour entry (europreart.net)
  • We spent about 1.5 hours here and didn’t see it all! (We only show a couple of the “rocks” here.) We had planned to see the nearby Rock art Natural reserve of Ceto, Cimbergo and Paspardo as well but a lunch appointment beckoned us to leave. We’ll be back!
  • If you are looking for a fun lunch spot, try Osteria Concarena in the cute village of Cerveno.

About Val Camonica:

  • Val Camonica one of the largest valleys of the central Alps, in eastern Lombardy, Italy. We travel up and down the valley going from Bergamo to Ponte di Legno / Passo del Tonale (for all sorts of outdoor activities). It’s a slightly less efficient timewise to get to Merano. (See A Week in Merano, Italy – Hiking.) Finally, if you haven’t seen the Presena glacier covered in summer to protect it, you don’t know what sad is. (See Presena Glacier – A summer visit to the covered glacier.)
  • Not only are the rock drawings inscribed in UNESCO, but the whole valley is also a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. This valley is happening. Many of our “local” wines come from the valley.
  • Val Camonica is derived from the Latin Vallis Camunnorum, "Valley of the Camunni."
  • The Camuni or Camunni were an ancient population located in Val Camonica during the Iron Age (1st millennium BC); the Latin name Camunni was attributed to them by the authors of the 1st century.

Rock 1: The Great Rock


This rock has more than two thousand figures engraved over its surface; it is not easy to see them all, even less to remember them. The most ancient figures, very few, date back to the recent phases of the Neolithic, six thousand years ago. The great majority of the others were engraved during the end of the Bronze Age and above all (over 80%) throughout the Iron Age, during the 1st millennium BC.


Rock 1 - animals and hunters Rock 1 - Hunter with long spear Rock 1 - Sector I
Rock 1, the Great Rock in Parco Naquane, Val Camonica: animals and hunters (left), hunter with long spear (center), Sector I (right).

Rock 1 - Deer and mystery shovel Rock 1 - labyrinth Rock 1 - Sector G
Rock 1: Deer and mystery shovel (left), labyrinth (center), Sector G (right).

Rock 1 - information board Rock 1 - information board Rock 1 - View from one side
Rock 1 information boards and view of rock 1 and viewing boardwalk.

Rock 1 - View from top Rock 1 - view with cat Rock 1 - mysterious shovels
Views of rock 1 in Parco Naquane, Val Camonia (left), with cat (center), with mystery shovel carvings (right). 

Rock 23: “Four-wheeled Wagon”


The wagon scene on rock 23 was carved with a double perspective: a depiction device commonly used in the ancient times to make all the parts of an object visible: the wagon itself is represented from above while the four radiant wheels and the two horses are seen from a lateral point of view.

Rock 23 - Four-wheeled wagon Rock 23 - information board
Rock 23: wagon carving (left) and information board (right).

Rock 35: “The Running Priest” and “Cammunian Village”.


The so-called "running priest" is lively figure that looks like it could have been done in our times. It is a male figure wearing a head gear with back bent feathers. The figure raises one of his arms while the other rests on his hip and his legs bent in a way that may suggest a running or a dance. This figure dates to the Iron Age.

Rock 35 - Cammunian Village in the winter sun Rock 35 - The Cammunian Village Rock 35 - The running priest 
Rock 35: Communian village (left and center) and running priest (right).

Rock 35 - View down the Val Camonica Rock 35 - information board
Left: boardwalk around rock 35 and view south down Val Camonica (left) and information board (right).

Rock 44: Halberd-Axes


We didn’t find them, but include a photo from that rock.

Rock 44 - information board Rock 44 - petroglyphs - rock carvings
Rock 44: Information board and carvings.


Rock 50: Prayers, knights, "the big warrior", inscriptions.


The first rock you come upon after entering the park. Depending on the light, you might not think there is anything there but look carefully to see looms, labyrinth, and the mysterious shovels.

The shovel engravings, whose first appearance dates back to the Middle-Late Bronze Age (16th-13th centuries BC), have been object of several interpretations, Among the most interesting ones it is worth mentioning the resemblance with razors discovered among grave goods in cremation burials, which is also associated with the habit of collecting the ashes of the departed. Bronze shovels have been also found in women graves both of the Golasecca Celts and of the palaeo-Venetic regions, where they are supposed to be linked to domestic activities. Finally, we must indicate the votive function of shovel groups, interpreted as symbolic representations of votive offerings. Therefore, the shovel in Valle Camonica rock art seems to have both a male and female value, and also suggests a different use of the object according to the figurative context where it is placed.
  
Rock 50 - Big Warrior  Rock 50 - prayers Rock 50 - viewing boardwalk
Rock 50: Big warrior (left), prayers (center), boardwalk around rock (right).

Rock 50 - slanting light Rock 50 - viewing boardwalk Rock 50 - View of surface
Rock 50: Winter light on rock carvings (left), viewing platform (center), fractured surface (right).

Rock 50 - warriors Rock 50 - prayers 
Rock 50: warriors (left) and prayers (right).

Rock 50 - information board Rock 50 - information board Rock 50 - information board
Rock 50: information boards.

General Park photos


 Naquane Park - path leading to entrance Parco Naquane - path Parco Naquane - info
Entrance to the park (left and center) and history of park (right).

Parco Naquane - along one of the entrances to the park Parco Naquane - petroglyphs and moss Parco Naquane - Concarena Mountain
House on the climb to the park (left), moss and rock carving (center), view over Val Camonica from the park (right).