Corycian Cave Hike

 
Inside the Corycian Dave on Mount Parnassus, near Delphi Greece.

This was our last full day in Delphi and in Greece. The weather turned out to cooperate: sun and little wind. So, we decided to hike to the Corycian Cave. We hiked out of Delphi (town) to the cave and back. The stats: 6.5 hours roundtrip (9:10 am to 3:30 pm). We measured about 28km. There was snow, but nothing that impeded our way. Some halfway decent hiking shoes were all that was needed.


Delphi Tourist Map showing wear to pick up E4 trail.

To start the hike (that is picking up the E4 long distance path) we used the point near the stadium. There seems to be at least two starting points. See map image. And, the first bit of climb is some of the worse as you quickly climb out of town. (Later, the final scramble up to the cave is also tiring.) 

Once you get up out of the city and finish climbing what is called the “Evil Staircase” (kaka skala) you are still above the town, just high above it. This is the last view of the town as you head away from the town (north).The walking gets a little easier and the trail is well marked. Eventually you come to some pasture lands. A huge stone trough is the main marker. At this point you stop taking the E4 and follow the road. There will be a couple of (summer) homes and you basically follow a dirt/sometimes paved road for a while (mostly down). Note that there is a point where another road joins the road you are on. Do not take that road. Just continue down the road you are on. Eventually you come to a meadow which on its edge has a picnic area and monastery, with a place to fill up with water. Just 5 minutes more down the road and on the left is a sign which indicates the scramble up the mountain to the cave. 

We spent about 45 minutes exploring the cave. There is a rope that allows access up into some dark back part of the cave. We tried it but decided it was too slippery and we didn’t have the right equipment. Bring a flashlight. 

The Rough Guide book we used pretty accurately described the hike so we just tore that page out of the book and carried it with us. 

View Just Outside the Corycian Cave on Mount Parnassus.

Delphi Archaeological Site

Tholos at Delphi, Greece.

 The Delphi Archaeological Site and Museum was as spectacular as we hoped it would be. The setting is excellent, extending over a series of terraces in the foothills of Mount Parnassus. The history - being the center for the Oracle of Delphi - is fascinating (politically, culturally, etc.). The museum was recently renovated and is a must see. We spend 5-6 hours seeing it all – but as I’ve said before we are slow and read lots of labels. Suggested viewing order is the logical order: 1) museum, 2) Sacred Precinct (the main site), 3) the Castalian Spring, 4), the gymnasium, and finally the 5) Marmaria. The Castalian Spring is closed off so you can’t see a whole lot, but you pass by it on the way to the gymnasium. To get from number 1 and 2 to 3, 4 and 5 you walk down the main road toward the east and with a few hundred feet come to other sites.


Charioteer at Delphi Museum.

Delphi – Hotel Orfeas

For our three nights in Delphi we stayed at Hotel Orfeas. It was reasonably priced (I think we paid less for all three nights then we did for one meal in Athens), but then again it was fairly no frills. Oh, and there wasn’t very many hotels open it seemed.

We had a good view looking south down to the coast, but, we were the only people in the hotel, so maybe it wasn’t so hard to snag? We reviewed five rooms before we chose the room - something we never do, but for some reason we did it there – we were really scoping out the best beds. 

They never came in to change towels, or make beds. In a way, for three days, we didn’t care. We sleep in sheets and use towels longer than three days. The fact they didn’t change them may indicate that they are used to folks just staying for one night. Delphi is really listed in all guidebooks as a “one-nighter” which I think is a bit unfair. When we checked into our hotel, the guy seemed incredulous that we would stay THREE nights. He kept asking us: "Three nights?" 

The breakfast was okay and attention from the owner Demetrius(?) was nice. He may offer an afternoon Greek coffee and if he doesn’t, ask. One morning, Demetrius was gone and his mother or mother in-law stepped out of a small doorway as I was making my way to the breakfast table. I jumped in surprise (not hard for me to get startled). She laughed and laughed and then tried to explain something to both of us (but concentrating on me since I obviously knew more Greek!?) for 10 minutes and we didn’t understand a damn thing. We left her and a friend sorting lentils and we thought, boy, they must be saying to each other: “what dummies, i tried to talk to them but they are clueless.”