A Hike from Val Taleggio to Piani di Artavaggio

Sometimes a food comes first and the place comes later. For us, Taleggio cheese showed up in our lives long before Val Taleggio itself did. Back in the 1990s we remember buying wedges of it at Whole Foods, intrigued by the orange rind and the slightly funky smell that promised something interesting inside. If someone had told us then that decades later we would be walking in the very valley where that cheese originated, we probably would have laughed. Yet here we are, boots on the trail in Val Taleggio, hiking toward the high meadows of Piani di Artavaggio.

  

View of Pizzino from just above Reggetto trail 150.

The tracks from Reggetto (Val Taleggio) to Piani di Artavaggio.

Monte Sodadura - Piani di Artavaggio (Lecco).

Overview

Length: 15.9 km
Duration: 4.5 hours (not including lunch, this time is up and back)
Elevation: 911 m, start point 960 m, highest point 1860 m
Location: Italy, Bergamo, Val Brembana, Val Taleggio

Notes

Today we took a hike from Val Taleggio to the Piani di Artavaggio. Val Taleggio is in the Province of Bergamo and Piani di Artavaggio is in the Province of Lecco.

Val Taleggio is a valley reachable from Val Brembana. From Bergamo you pass through San Pellegrino (perhaps you’ve heard about its water 😉) and continue up valley to the next town San Giovanni Bianco and take a sharp left and head west. After a few kilometers, you enter what is called in Italian Orrido della Val Taleggio or the Val Taleggio Ravine, a 3-km-long gorge carved by the Enna River.

Most people arrive at the Piani di Artavaggio via the Artavaggio cable car (from Moggio) as we did when we were last here hiking in August of 2023. (See Hiking Between Piani di Artavaggio and Piani di Bobbio.)

The “piani” of Piani di Artavaggio refers to the high meadows or alpine plains that characterize this area. Artavaggio could be a medieval Lombard or pre-Latin name describing a rocky, high pasture or a pasture associated with a person named Arto/Harto.

The CAI Bergamo Trail 150 is a mix of trails and dirt farming roads and isn’t the common way to reach the Piani. With trail 150, you start in Reggetto (Vedeseta), at around 960 m. Then you follow the signs, slowly climbing past summer pastures and serene stone structures in various states of disrepair. Once we reached the Piani, we kept climbing to reach Rifugio Nicola at around 1860 m.

Reggetto is a settlement of 13 full-time people as we learned at the local bar Nonno Fifi run by Fifi’s granddaughter. Fifi has been gone for about 15 years, but the fluorescent green building housing his bar remains as well as a small cheese shop located across from the bar. We couldn’t resist the temptation of getting some cheese where it is produced, so headed over. It’s called Società Agricola Locatelli Guglielmo. And we bought… you guessed it: Taleggio, but also strachítunt – a cheese not well known outside of Italy.

With our haul – our friend called it our bottino in Italian – we started to head back to Bergamo. But we didn’t make it far before we ran into the Coop. Agricola S. Antonio, a local cheese cooperative just below Reggetto. We said hello to the cows and popped inside to buy some yogurt, butter, and formaggella. After that, it really was back to Bergamo.

A carpet of snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis).
Trail 150 Reggetto (Val Taleggio) - pastures and old buildings.
View northeast from Trail 150 above Reggetto into the Orobie Bergamasche.

 
Piani di Artavaggio - vew from below Rifugio Nicola looking southwest toward Monte Resegone.
Trail 150 from Reggetto to Piani di Artavaggio.

  
Trail 150 from Reggetto to Piani di Artavaggio.

Cheese

Why is the area so famous? The answer is simple: pasture, tradition, and geography.

Val Taleggio and the surrounding Bergamasque Prealps have long been ideal terrain for alpine dairy farming. The steep slopes and high summer pastures (alpeggi) mean cattle are moved seasonally from valley farms to higher grazing areas. During the summer months cows feed on diverse alpine grasses and herbs, which in turn influence the flavor of the milk.

That milk becomes cheese.

The most famous product is Taleggio, one of Italy’s oldest soft cheeses, with roots going back at least to the 10th or 11th century. Historically it was called Stracchino, from the Lombard word stracch meaning “tired,” referring to cows returning from summer pastures. The cheese was later named after the valley where it was widely produced. Today Taleggio is a DOP cheese (Denominazione di Origine Protetta), meaning production is regulated and tied to this region.

Less well known internationally—but arguably even more interesting—is Strachítunt. This rare blue cheese originates specifically in Val Taleggio and neighboring valleys. It’s made by layering curds from two different milkings, creating natural blue veining without the industrial inoculation typical of many blue cheeses. Production nearly disappeared in the late 20th century but was revived by a handful of local producers and now holds its own DOP designation.

Walking through Val Taleggio you see why cheese production took root here. Pastures surround nearly every settlement, barns sit tucked into the slopes, and aging stone structures hint at generations of dairy work. The landscape itself feels built for milk and grass.

  
Views from Trail 150 Reggetto (Val Taleggio) to Piani di Artavaggio. Cows graze here starting in June.

Flora

The dominant colors today were late-winter earth brown in the lower parts of the hike or snow white in the upper parts. Piani di Artavaggio was still covered in snow. But that earth brown of the lower parts was punctuated by loads of late winter flowers, the usual but always welcome suspects listed below.

I’m surprised by how many Italians who we go on hikes with ask what this is. It’s one of the easiest to spot in late winter because of the color and shape of the flower. The three-lobed leaf shape and color reminded medieval herbalists of the human liver, and from that came the common name "liverwort". This is when people thought that God marked plants with a signature indicating which organ they could heal.

Spring crocuses are not where saffron comes from. It’s the autumn crocus, Crocus sativus. Spring crocuses have white or yellow stamens compared to Crocus sativus.

The lower regions of this hike, just outside of Reggetto, had some of the most beautiful stands of snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) that we had ever seen.

[Family] Genus species – {Common names in English; Italian}

[Amaryllidaceae] Galanthus nivalis – {Snowdrop; Bucaneve}
  

[Asteraceae] Petasites albus – {White butterbur; Farfaraccio bianco}
(no photo)

[Asteraceae] Tussilago farfara – {Coltsfoot; Tossilaggine comune}

[Iridaceae] Crocus vernus – {Crocus; Zafferano di primavera}
 

[Primulaceae] Primula elatior – {Oxlip; Primula maggiore}


[Primulaceae] Primula vulgaris – {Primrose; Primula comune}
 

[Ranunculaceae] Anemone nemorosa – {European Wood Anemone; Anemone dei boschi}

[Ranunculaceae] Helleborus niger – {Christmas Rose; Rosa di Natale}
  

[Ranunculaceae] Helleborus viridis – {Green Hellebore; Elleboro verde}
 

[Ranunculaceae] Hepatica nobilis – {Liverwort; Epatica erba trinità}
 

[Thymelaeaceae] Daphne mezereum – {Mezereon; Dafne mezereo o fior di stecco}

A Sunday Walk to Find Il Becco di Dossena

Il Becco di Dossena was inaugurated in 2023, but it seems like we’ve been hearing about it longer. Recently, on the way home from a ski day at Piani di Bobbio as we were heading down Val Brembana, I looked up, saw it for a moment, and decided we should go. Then some friends said “hey, would you like to go for a walk on Sunday” and by the way “do you have any suggestions”. And voilà, a few days later we are standing on the beak (becco).

  

Left: Il Becco di Dossena in Dossena, Italy.

Center: Horses on Trail 599C in Dossena, Italy.

Right: The artwork Eco della Montagna near Il Becco di Dossena.

We think we followed the trail outlined here: Sentiero 599C: Dossena (SS. Trinità) - Miniere del Paglio | CAI Bergamo. We parked at the Chiesetta SS. Trinità and just started walking. After a short time, we arrived at the Parco Giochi (where you could also just as easily start from). If you're pressed for time or simply don’t want to walk, you can drive to the Parcheggio miniere and start from there. From the Parcheggio miniere, it’s a steady uphill climb on an old road.

The whole area leading up to Il Becco is well curated, with little bits of art to see. In particular, before the last push to the top there is an art installation called Eco della Montagna that celebrates the memory of all the people who worked in the former mining sites of the Dossena territory. The project consists of a circular fence, 25 meters in diameter, which "embraces" a large stone, sculpted by the artist Francesco Paterlini, isolating it from the surrounding landscape and giving it a symbolic and contemplative nature.

The piece is very Zen-like and fun to wander around.

After the “Eco” and just below Il Becco is another stopping point – again very Zen-inspired in our opinion – with a circular form, seating and a beautiful view east.

Il Becco is a 16 m (52.5 ft) walkway sticking out from the cliff edge. It’s about 250 m (820 ft) above Val Parina. Yours truly had a bit of trouble making it to the end without holding on tightly to the railing.

All in all, a beautiful project and a beautiful setting. And, free to visit.

Below the Parcheggio miniere there is the Miniere di Dossena, where you can find out more about the mines that once operated there and even visit inside the mines. We were there too early on our Sunday walk and missed the opening hours. Another reason to return.

  

Left: Dossena with Cima di Menna in the distance.
Center: Entrance to mines in Dossena, Italy.

Right: Horses in Dossena, Italy.

  

Left and center: Eco della montagna - Dossena, Italy

   

Left: Helleborus niger along Trail 599C.

Center left: Leucojum vernum along Trail 599C.

Center right: Trail 599C in Dossena, Italy.

Right: View to Parina in Val Brembana from Il Becco.

  

Il Becco di Dossena, Italy

 

Left: Sole - a whimsical art installation just below Il Becco di Dossena.
Right: A whimsical artwork on the way to Il Becco di Dossena.

A Hike to Rifugio Gherardi in Val Taleggio

Overview | Getting There | The Hike | Flora

Upper left: Views of snow-capped mountains surrounding Rifugio Gherardi in the Val Taleggio. Upper right: Hiking tracks for a journey to Rifugio Gherardi. Bottom left: Approaching Passo Baciamorti. Bottom center: View from Pizzo Bacciamorti toward Monte Aralalta. Bottom right: Road leading to and from Rifugio Gherardi with Monte Cancervo in the distance, left.

Overview

Length: 13.4 km (8.3 mi)

Duration: 6 hours total, including 1.5 hours for lunch at Rifugio Gherardi.

Elevation: Minimum altitude 1,290 m (4,232 ft) at Capo Foppa, max altitude 2006 m (6,581 ft) at Pizzo Baciamorti; total gain of 1,024 m (3359 ft).

Location: Italy, Lombardy, Val Taleggio

Getting There

We got a lift with friends, but there are buses that can get you as far as Pizzino. By car, drive up Val Brembana, take a left at San Giovanni Bianco, and follow Strada Provinciale 25 more or less west toward Taleggio. From Taleggio center, head up toward Pizzino until you reach a pull out in the road (here) and there is a sign for Capo Foppa. Stop and put 2 euros in a machine to be able to use the road. Then, continue on via Arighiglio to the end of the road where at Capo Foppa, where you can park.

There are a couple of interesting things to point out along the journey to Taleggio. First, in the cute little center of San Giovanni Bianco, you will be greeted by the statue of Vistallo Zignoni. Who is he you ask?

Vistallo Zignoni was an Italian mercenary who lived between the 15^th and 16^th centuries and is reputed to have brought a piece of the crown of thorns (sacra spina) to San Giovanni Bianco in the Val Brembana. The “holy relic” was booty from a battle Zignoni fought in 1495. Zignoni, who was banned from his homeland of Val Brembana (under the rule of Venice at that time), got the mercenary idea to use the holy thorn as a bargaining chip. (What would Jesus do?) From the doge and senate of Venice, Zignoni was able make a deal and turn over the relic and in return receive a life pension for himself and family members as well as get his ban from his homeland lifted for 100 years. Even more, in the deal, he was able to keep part of the relic and bring it back home where it lives today in the Reliquia Sacra Spina facing the statue in San Giovanni Bianco. And everyone lived happily ever after.

The second interesting thing about getting to this hike is that after leaving San Giovanni Bianco, you take Strada Provinciale 25 to Taleggio. This takes you through the Orrido della Val Taleggio. Orrido as an adjective means “horrid” but also a noun means “ravine” or “gorge”. SP 25 winds its way through a very narrow and gnarled canyon, first on one side of the river Enna, then on the other side, then back again. It’s a fascinating 15 minutes passing through the orrido.

The third interesting thing about this hike is that you are in VAL TALEGGIO, all-caps intentional shouting. Just hearing the word Taleggio evokes the taste sensation of that soft and aromatic cheese that has been around since Roman times. Outside of Italy, Taleggio cheese is - for lack of a better word - more industrial, with an orange-colored rind and a moderate flavor. The Taleggio cheese you buy locally, is less orange looking and more aromatic. So, when passing through Pizzino be sure to pick up some Taleggio cheese. We stopped at Alimentari Pesenti and got a hunk of it as a reward for our hiking efforts.

Left: The statue of Vistallo Zignoni in San Giovanni Bianco in Val Brembana. Center left: The statue of Vistallo Zignoni faces the church that contains the hold relic he won in battle. Center right: A hunk of Taleggio cheese purchased in Val Taleggio. Right: La Madonnina of Pizzo Baciamorti.

The Hike

The goal of the hike is to reach Rifugio Gherardi, but there are a couple of ways to do it. The most obvious and easiest way is to take Sentiero 120, which takes you straight up to Rifugio Gherardi on a paved and then dirt road that’s easy walking. We took this on our way back.

To get to the rifugio, we opted for a longer, scenic route going counterclockwise. We followed Sentiero 153 (Capofoppa to Passo Baciamorti) toward the pass and then we picked up the trail to Pizzo Baciamorti (2006 m). Going down from down from Pizzo Baciamorti, you join up with Sentiero 101_1 for short bit and then switch to Sentiero 120, which takes you to Rifugio Gherardi. Alternatively, from Passo Baciamorti you can also skip Pizzo Baciamorti and follow Sentiero 101_1.

The name of the pass (passo) and peek (pizzo) Baciamorti loosely translates to the suggestive "kiss the dead". We wondered why and went looking for an answer. An Eco di Bergamo article (in Italian) talked about the possible origins of the name. One of the explanations we found the most plausible is that the name derives from a corruption of the original name over the centuries. According to the local historian interviewed in the article, in the 13th century, this location appears on deeds as "masione mora" (dark house) likely referring to the hut that still is found just below the pass (and shown in photo with this post). In maps from the 16th century, the location is referred to as "Masamoro", then two centuries later as "Vasamoro". In a map of the 1800s, the name "Basamorti" is used. It's not a leap to go from that to "Baciamorti".  Some of the other explanations of the name come from the fact that the pass was the boundary between warring clans and they used to exchange the dead from the skirmishes at this point. And everyone lived happily ever after.

Rifugio Gherardi is at 1650 m (5,313 ft) and is named for Angelo Gherardi, an expert ski-climber who died accidentally during a winter ascent to the Corno Stella on December 29, 1974. Rifugio Gherardi opened in 1987.

Back in August 2017, we tried to go up Corno Stella and backed out when the trail got a bit too much for us. That was summer. We can’t imagine what it would be like in winter. For more information on that hike, see our post A Hike to Lago Moro above Foppolo.

Being relatively easy to reach, on the weekends expect to find lots of families with blankets spread out and kids playing on the ample green space around Rifugio Gherardi. It’s part of the experience. Grab a picnic table outside, order your food, and kick back.

Left and center left: Homemade cake and pasta dish at Rifugio Gherardi. Center right: The menu at Rifugio Gherardi including, on this day, pasta, brasato, arrosto and zuppa farro e orzo. Right: View of Rifugio Gherardi.

Left: Hike tracks and position in Val Taleggio. Center left: Hike summary statistics from ViewRanger. Center right: Sign at Passo Baciamorti. Right: Hiking in Val Taleggio - view from Sentiero 153 looking south. 

Flora

For more on flowers found around Bergamo, especially in the Bergamasque Alps, see our Pinterest page: Bergamasque Prealps Flowers and Plants.

Key: [Family] Genus species (if available) {English :: Italian common name}

[Asteraceae] Tephroseris sp. possible T. longifolia - CF {Southern Ragwort :: Senecione a foglie lunghe}

Tephroseris sp. possible T. longifolia

[Brassicaceae] Cardamine heptaphylla – CF {Pinnate Coralroot :: Dentaria pennata}

Cardamine heptaphylla

[Caryophyllaceae] Silene dioica – CF {Red Campion :: Silene dioica}

Silene dioica

[Gentianaceae] Gentiana acaulis – CF {Stemless Gentian :: Gentiana acaule}

Gentiana acaulis

[Gentianaceae] Gentiana verna – CF {Spring Gentian :: Genziana primaverile}

Gentiana verna

[Iridaceae] Crocus verna – CF {Spring Crocus :: Zafferano maggiore}

Crocus verna

[Lilliaceaea] Fritillaria sp. – CF {Fritillaria :: Meleagride}

Fritillaria sp.

[Plantaginaceae] Globularia cordifolia – CF {Matted Globularia :: Vedovella a foglie cordate}

Globularia cordifolia

[Polygalaceae] Polygala chamaebuxus – CF {Shrubby Milkwort :: Poligala falso bosso}

Polygala chamaebuxus

[Primulaceae] Primula glaucescens – CF {? :: Primula glaucescente}

Primula glaucescens

[Ranunculaceae] Helleborus viridis – CF {Green Hellebore :: Ellebore verde}

Helleborus viridis

[Ranunculaceae] Pulsatilla alpina – CF {Alpine Pasqueflower :: Pulsatilla alpina}

Left and center: Pulsatilla alpina. Right: Fritillarria with Pulsatilla alpina.

[Ranunculaceae] Thalictrum aquilegifolium – CF {Columbine Meadow-rue :: Pigamo colombino}

Thalictrum aquilegifolium

[Rosaceae] Potentilla verna – CF {Alpine cinquefoil :: Cinquefoglia di Tabernaemontano}

Potentilla verna