Wednesday, June 11, 2025

Temples and Shrines, Gardens and Connection to Nature in Japan

A composite image of 25 flowers and plants we saw in Japan
A composite image of 25 plants and flowers we saw in Japan.

It's been 2 weeks since our Japan trip and we are still sorting through pictures. Unsurprisingly, we are finding many plant photos. The composite image for this post shows some of these photos; all of the photos were taken in a temple or shrine, which got use thinking about the function of these spaces in Japanese cities.

Japan’s temples and shrines offer a tranquil escape from the bustling cities, often nestled in landscapes filled with lush greenery. These sacred sites, whether Buddhist temples or Shinto shrines, are not just places of worship but also havens of nature, where you can relax under towering sugi trees, walk alongside moss gardens and or sip tea in a teahouse gazing out at a curated garden.

Some estimates state that Japan has approximately 80,000 shrines and temples across the country. This means that in many cities, these spiritual sites are as common as convenience stores. With that ubiquity it's easy to get in the trap of trying to see them all. It became clear to us after a few days in Japan that no, we don’t need to see them all, and we should choose ones that were interesting to us.

Japan has a remarkably diversity of flora when you consider its relatively small land area. This is due thanks to the country’s geographical 3,000 kilometers range from the subarctic north of Hokkaido to the subtropical south of Okinawa. This variation in climate allows for a wide array of plant species, including evergreen forests in the south, broad-leaved deciduous forests in central Japan, and alpine vegetation in the mountainous regions.

Beyond these observations, it’s important to note that Japanese culture has a deep, almost intrinsic connection with nature, and this relationship is fostered both through formal education and longstanding cultural practices. We could sense this connection. Even in a city like Tokyo, stepping into alley from a main road, we would find plants adorning entrances or facades.

From an early age, children learn about the natural world in school, often through field trips to local parks, temples, and natural reserves. These experiences, alongside lessons in the classroom, are designed to instill not only an appreciation for the beauty of Japan’s diverse landscapes but also a sense of responsibility for preserving them. This early education is complemented by the cultural ethos shaped by Shinto and Buddhist traditions, where nature itself is revered as sacred. Children grow up seeing natural elements—be they mountains, forests, or even interesting plants in temple gardens—as important parts of their heritage and daily lives.

Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Kamakura, Japan – Two Short Hikes

Walk 1 - Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course map Walk 2 - Sign Describing the Gion-yama Hiking Course Two walks in Kamakura annotated - satellite view
Left: Sign describing the Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Center: Sign Describing the Gion-yama Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Right: Satellite view of Kamakura, Japan showing two hikes described in this post.


We were in Kamakura for 3 days, at the end of our Japan Trip. In between eating and visiting temples and shrines, we managed to get two very short hikes in. We are calling them hikes because you need some good shoes to be on these trails, and they were at times steep and muddy.

Viewed from above, Kamakura’s settlements and sharp forested hills look like ridges and creases of a brain. And while the greenness might seem sparse at first glance, it is a lush and vibrant landscape once you are inside of it as on these two trails.

Trail 1: The Daibutsu Hiking Trail is a scenic forest path in Kamakura that connects Jochi-ji Temple near Kita-Kamakura Station to Kotoku-in, home of the Great Buddha (Daibutsu). This 2.5-kilometer trail winds through wooded hills, offering a peaceful escape from the bustling city while passing by lesser-known temples and shrines. Along the way, hikers can visit Zeniarai Benten Shrine, Sasuke Inari Shrine, and Genjiyama Park, making it a great route for both nature lovers and history enthusiasts. The Kuzuharaoka Hiking Course is closely linked to the Daibutsu Trail and is sometimes considered part of it. This route also passes through Genjiyama Park and leads to Kuzuharaoka Shrine, which is known for its matchmaking rituals. The two trails overlap in certain sections, but the Kuzuharaoka Course has its own distinct path and highlights.

Views of the Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Walk 1 - steep part of trail Walk 1 - along the trail roots Walk 1 - along the trail - stairs
Walk 1 - sign along the Daibutu Hiking Course Walk 1 - Leaving the Kotoku-in and looking for the start of the trail Walk 1 - Fatsia japonica
Walk 1 - along the trail - crows Walk 1 - a stop at the money - washing temple - Zeniarai Benten Shrine



Trail 2: The Gion-yama Hiking Course goes from From Tōshō-ji Site to Yakumo Shrine. Just before descending to the Yakumo Shrine, there is a scenic point with a view looking west over Kamakura.

Views of the Gion-yama Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Walk 2 - along the trail Walk 2- along the trail - lush ferns Walk 2 - Yakumo Shrine in Kamakura
Walk 2 - View from Mt Gion Lookout Walk 2 - View from Mt Gion Lookout Walk 2 - along the trail under the cool trees
Walk 2 - start near Tōshō-ji Site Walk 2 - small shrine Walk 2 - Gion-yama Hiking Course xample of signage




Thursday, June 5, 2025

Kawai Kanjiro’s House in Kyoto



Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example  Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln
Views from Kawai Kanjiro's house in Kyoto. Pottery, rooms, chairs, and climbing kiln.


Overview


On our recent Japan trip, we spent a week in Kyoto. One morning, we stopped by the house museum of Kawai Kanjiro. We knew nothing about Kanjiro before we went and walked away enjoying his pottery, the house he designed, and the chairs we saw there (more on that later). Also, there is an awesome coffee shop nearby, Ichikawaya Coffee that has great coffee and fruit sandwiches. The museum plus coffee makes for a perfect break from the temples and shrines.

About Kanjiro


Kawai Kanjiro (1890–1966) was a master potter and ceramist who made a profound mark on Japan’s craft and design landscape. Not only was he pivotal to the mingei, or folk craft movement, which celebrated the beauty and functionality of everyday objects, but his creative genius spanned across wood carving, calligraphy, sculpture, and even writing. He imbued his work with poetic intuition and a deep respect for functional beauty, that continues to inspire.

In 1937, Kanjiro designed his Kyoto residence with a singular vision: to create a seamless fusion between home and workshop. Located in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto, the house was conceived as a vibrant living space where everyday life and creative practice intersected. It was built to accommodate not only his living quarters but also a studio and a climbing kiln. Every element of the space—from the fixtures to the furnishings (chairs?)—bears his distinctive mark, creating an intimate experience for visitors.

Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View
Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View 
Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View  Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View
Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View 

Climbing Kiln


Notably, the house still hosts his original wood-fired kilns—with chambers capable of reaching temperatures between 850°C and 1,150°C—that were integral to his craft.

The climbing kiln, known in Japanese as the noborigama, dates back centuries in Japan and was already an established method for firing ceramics. What Kanjiro did was build his own climbing kiln in 1920 for his studio in Kyoto—a personal adaptation of a traditional technique rather than a new invention. His kiln allowed him to experiment with innovative glaze techniques and firing methods, which in turn had a significant impact on modern studio pottery and the mingei (folk art) movement. This adaptation was part of his broader commitment to blending traditional craftsmanship with new ideas, not an attempt to reinvent the kiln design itself.

The noborigama had long been used by potters to achieve multiple firing temperatures and effects by firing several chambers simultaneously on a slope. Kanjiro’s choice to use this kiln was rooted in his respect for traditional methods and his desire to harness their unique qualities in his work. His focus was more on the artistic innovations in glaze application and form rather than on the kiln's structural design.


Photos of the climbing kiln at Kawai Kanjiro's house.
Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln
Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln  



Chairs and Pottery


The Kanjiro house is well-preserved, offering a glimpse into the daily life of a modern Japanese artist of the early 20th century. Walking through its rooms, you encounter ceramics, calligraphies, wood carvings, personal collections, and furnishings. Traditional elements, such as sliding shoji screens, wooden lattices, and an authentic hearth, combine easily with Western design.

As you would expect there are interesting pieces of pottery throughout the house as they might have been in Kanjiro's time. In the studio area, pottery is arranged more as if for an exhibition, but still pleasing.

We were also struck by the interesting variety of chairs we saw in Kanjiro's house. We were wondering if Kanjiro himself designed them, had them made, or simply purchased them. They all looked severe yet comfortable, improbable yet organic. Nice pottery, but did you see those chairs!?


Pottery we saw in Kawai Kanjiro's house.
Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example  Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example

Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example

Chairs we saw in Kawai Kanjiro's house.
Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair