Showing posts with label seville. Show all posts
Showing posts with label seville. Show all posts

Monday, May 11, 2026

Planning a Trip to Death, Then Going Anyway



Sometimes for us obsessive people it feels like modern travel begins long before departure. Not at the airport or on the train. Not even when the suitcase comes out of the closet.

It begins months earlier, somewhere between opening Google Maps for the tenth time and learning the names of neighborhoods we've never visited. And, at this point you already have a pin collection of hotels, coffee stops, and sights in a city you are not even sure you'll visit.

In this light, we want to talk about how trip research itself has become a form of travel, at times as suggestive and powerful as the actual visit.

Proto-Travel


At some point, planning stops being preparation and starts becoming something else. It's like a low-grade form of mental relocation.

Before our recent trips to Spain and our ongoing planning for Japan, we realized we were already partially living in those places, at least in our heads. We knew train transfers before stepping onto the platforms. We had opinions about neighborhoods we had never walked through. We recognized street names from maps and videos. We knew where we wanted coffee in Seville and Osaka before we had even booked all the hotels.

Research has become a kind of proto-travel. It's not the trip itself, obviously. But also, it is no longer entirely separate from it.

Modern travel planning makes this easy. We can study routes, walk streets virtually, read years of blog posts, compare transit options, watch train departures in real time, and obsess over whether a transfer in Tokyo Station is psychologically manageable with luggage and jet lag. Add the modern AI assistant and it all goes into overdrive.

Of course, this did not start with Google Maps or AI. Years ago, in our 2012 post Too Many Maps - Iceland Case Study, we came home from Iceland with a small paper ecosystem: tourist maps, dining maps, bus maps, rental-car maps, promotional maps, and probably a few maps whose only function was to make us feel guilty about throwing them away. Proto-travel existed then too in a way. It was just folded badly and stuffed into a plastic bin that you eventually recycled.

With proto-travel, the unfamiliar slowly starts to feel familiar, and travel research compresses geographic distance.

Not Everyone Travels This Way


To be clear, this is not how travel has to work. It is how modern travel often works for us, because we choose it. We are not trying to program every hour of every day, though it may look suspiciously like that from the outside. The point is almost the opposite: to create enough understanding that opportunities can arise once we are there. A little intel work can make a trip more open, not less.

Some travelers book the flights, reserve a place to sleep, and let the rest unfold on the ground. There is a lot to admire in that. It sounds liberating. It also sounds, for us, like a controlled experiment in mild anxiety.

Others hand the reins to a travel company, which can be exactly right. There are trips where having someone else solve the logistics is not laziness but wisdom. Still, that is usually not where the pleasure is for us, at least for most trips.

Constructed Familiarity


One interesting side effect of all this preparation is the strange feeling of arriving somewhere that already feels vaguely remembered.

The obsessive planning, and yes, we call it that, also tickles the research bone. We like understanding a place in albeit a limited way before arriving, not because we think we can master it from a distance, but because a little preparation lets us go deeper once there. We get more experiential value. We notice more. We ask better questions. We waste less energy on avoidable confusion and leave more room for the interesting kind of confusion.

For our Seville Christmas 2025 trip (see Seville at Christmas: A Short Return to a Familiar City), we found ourselves navigating toward places we somehow already "knew." We had mentally rehearsed the rhythm of the days before they happened. We already had ideas about quiet morning walks, Christmas closures, and how neighborhoods connected.

With our Lanzarote trip (see Lanzarote - In the Layers), the research became even more immersive. Before arriving, we had already built a mental picture of volcanic landscapes, cactus gardens, wind-shaped terrain, and the strange visual contrast between black lava fields and whitewashed buildings. We were not just researching a destination anymore. We were constructing a framework for understanding it.

For our Japan 2025 trip (see 21 days in Japan – Observations and Tips), our preparation and therefore beforehand familiarity was taken to new levels. We were not contracting with an agency to do all the groundwork for us and instead arranged all the logistics ourselves. With a sizable language barrier and sheer unfamiliarity with the culture, we overcompensated you might say, on the planning.

For our upcoming Japan 2026 planning, you might think we have relaxed a bit. But no, we haven't. The drive to optimize and honestly just understand and create the opportunity for an experience has us again at a fevered pitch. We have spent evenings discussing Osaka coffee-shop clusters, Hiroshima tram routes, whether Amanohashidate makes more sense than Kinosaki-Onsen, and how many train transfers are acceptable in one day.

A recent trip to Fez (see Five Days in Fez, Morocco) was another version of this, though delayed in its execution. In summer 2023, we researched a trip for that fall in Morocco, mentally relocating ourselves into the medina before ever setting foot there. Then the September 2023 earthquake happened in Morocco, and for various reasons the plan went quiet for a while. The imagined trip was folded away, like one of those Iceland maps we couldn't quite throw out. When a friend later suggested a short trip to Fez, much of that old research suddenly became useful again. Not complete, not current, not enough to replace fresh thinking, but enough to give shape to the possibility.

This is another thing travel planning teaches: sometimes you have to be willing to set a plan aside without mourning it too much. A researched trip is not wasted just because it doesn't happen on schedule. Sometimes it waits for a better time.

Planning as Relationship Work


In a previous post, Why do we travel?, we tried to sort out what we actually get from travel: vanity, relaxation, exploration, companions, awe, and all the uncomfortable little negotiations that happen when people leave home together. 

Planning also forces many aspects of the why-do-we-travel question. A question that sounds simple until you try to answer it. Rest? Beauty? Food? Difficulty? Novelty? A sense of being elsewhere? A day with no decisions? A day with exactly the right number of decisions? In that sense, travel planning becomes an exercise in self-knowledge before it becomes an actual itinerary.

Planning a trip with a partner adds another dimension entirely, where travel planning becomes a kind of relationship rehearsal. Before the trip even begins, you are already negotiating pace, comfort, priorities, interests, tolerances, and expectations. 

One person dreams about quiet ryokans and long contemplative baths. The other may be thinking: "How long exactly are we supposed to sit in hot water?"

That realization recently reshaped our Japan planning. For example, Kinosaki-Onsen occupied a glowing place in my imagined upcoming itinerary: canal walks, yukata, atmospheric inns, slow evenings, public baths. It looked perfect in the abstract. But eventually I had to confront something obvious: the other half of my travel party is simply not a spa person.

So why exactly were we going there?

Good trip planning sometimes means abandoning the version of the trip you had already started mentally living in, and that can be surprisingly difficult. The planner often becomes emotionally attached to the researched version of the trip. Routes become narratives. Hotels become symbols. Carefully optimized itineraries can start to feel inevitable.

Then your partner says: "I don't think I would actually enjoy that." And they are probably right.

Travel planning becomes a small test of flexibility and empathy. You are not designing an abstractly good trip. You are designing a shared experience for actual humans. And the best planning decision may be to delete something you had your heart set on.

The Limits of Research


Of course, the researched version of a place is always flatter than the lived one because reality refuses complete reconstruction.

No amount of reading prepares you for exhaustion, weather, smells, awkward moments, getting lost, overheard conversations, or the random bakery that becomes your strongest memory of a city.

Tokyo was perhaps our clearest example of this gap between research and reality. On paper and during planning, it initially resolved into something simple in our heads: a giant city. Dense. Efficient. Overwhelming perhaps. But once there, it unfolded into something much more layered and human. It felt less like one city than many interconnected cities stitched together. Quiet side streets suddenly emerged beside giant stations. Tiny neighborhood coffee shops existed just blocks from overwhelming commercial corridors. And perhaps most surprising was the everyday politeness and cleanliness. We had read about it, of course, but experiencing it directly was something else entirely (see Japan Trip – A Salute to People We Saw and Cleanliness).

The same thing happened in Seville with the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo. During planning, it was just another museum pin on the map, one item among many. But in practice, visiting it became a whole-day experience. Crossing the river, wandering the grounds of the former monastery, getting slightly lost, eating oranges in the garden, and feeling temporarily removed from the tourist center of the city itself. The experience expanded far beyond what our research outlined.

And during our June 2026 trip through Normandy and Brittany (see 8 Day Getaway in France: Honfleur and Douarnenez), we realized that no amount of planning had prepared us for how deeply the countryside would affect us. The hedgerows, fields, small roads, changing light, and layered greens were not things we had really researched in detail. Yet they became one of the emotional centers of the trip.

Travel ultimately exceeds the models we build of it; otherwise there would be little reason to leave home at all. And thankfully so. The trip still has to happen.

And perhaps that is why research remains pleasurable. It brings us closer to another place without fully collapsing the distance. The destination remains slightly out of reach, preserving the possibility of surprise. Research becomes part of the journey, but never the whole thing.

We plan not to eliminate surprises, but to make better surprises possible.


Fez cat, sipping like us, from pool of information.

Sunday, December 28, 2025

Seville at Christmas: A Short Return to a Familiar City



Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo - Seville, Spain Parque de María Luisa - Seville, Spain Pasarela sobre el Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain 
Lampara Santana Mercado Feria - Seville, Spain Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena, de Sevilla - Seville, Spain Setas de Seville, Spain
Top row, left: Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo - Seville, Spain
Top row, center: Parque de María Luisa - Seville, Spain
Top row, right: Pasarela sobre el Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain
Bottom row, left: Lampara Santana Mercado Feria - Seville, Spain
Bottom row, center: Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena, de Sevilla - Seville, Spain
Bottom row, right: Setas de Seville, Spain

We first visited Seville in 2014 as part of a larger trip through Spain in 2014. That visit was packed with the usual first-time Seville energy: the cathedral, the Alcázar, bike tours, tapas, and the small thrill of realizing that the city was not just beautiful, but also easy to like.

More than a decade later we found ourselves back again, this time for a short Christmas 2025 escape. The goal was simpler: take it easy, walk around, eat well, drink good coffee, and see what happened when we returned to a city we already knew we liked.

The timing introduced a small twist. Many museums, galleries, and venues were closed around the holiday. Seville slows down noticeably at Christmas, and we occasionally found ourselves standing in front of doors that would not open again until after the festivities. This is the sort of travel lesson one relearns every few years: holidays are charming until you want to enter a museum. Still, Seville proved forgiving. A closed door in Seville usually means there is a street, a plaza, a church, a café, or a bar nearby willing to take over the itinerary.

Walking Back Into Seville


We spent a good part of the trip wandering neighborhoods and parks, including the leafy Jardines de Murillo and the broader Parque de María Luisa. The two spaces feel different, even if both are perfect for slowing down between meals. The Murillo Gardens sit beside Santa Cruz and trace their history back to gardens associated with the Alcázar. Parque de María Luisa is larger and grander, developed from the former gardens of the Palacio de San Telmo and later shaped into Seville’s great public park.

That difference matched our mood. Sometimes we wanted narrow streets, orange trees, and small turns. Sometimes we wanted long paths, tiled benches, fountains, and the feeling of being able to walk off lunch without formally admitting that was the goal.

Returning to the Setas de Sevilla in Plaza de la Encarnación was one of the highlights. We had first seen the giant wooden “mushrooms” in 2014, when they still felt like a slightly improbable object that had landed in the middle of the city. This time the visit included Feeling Seville, a short audiovisual and sensory experience added to the attraction. It is the kind of thing that could easily be too much, but we were in a holiday mood and willing to be lightly processed by mist, light, sound, and civic branding. The view from above still works beautifully.

Christmas Morning, Statues, and the River


Christmas morning was spent strolling through the old town, where statues and small discoveries punctuated the walk. We passed monuments to Francisco Palacios “El Pali”, the Sevillanas singer closely associated with the city, and Pastora Imperio, one of the great figures of flamenco. These are the kinds of monuments that are easy to miss if you are rushing toward the cathedral or Alcázar, but on a slower trip they become part of the day’s texture.

Later we wandered farther afield and crossed the river for a walk along the somewhat forgotten Pasarela sobre el Guadalquivir, a quiet walkway extending into the river landscape. It was not a major sight, and that was partly the appeal. After the decorated streets and central plazas, it felt good to stand near the river and look back at the city from a less polished angle.

Triana and Ceramics


One of our main stops was in Triana at the Centro Cerámica Triana, a small museum built inside a preserved ceramic factory. Triana’s identity has long been tied to ceramics, especially tiles, and the museum does a good job of making that history tangible without overexplaining it. You see the industrial bones of the place, the kilns and workshop traces, and then the finished objects that came from this neighborhood tradition.

Inside we saw the permanent Centro Cerámica Triana Collection and a couple of temporary exhibitions, including CENTRO CERÁMICA TRIANA PERFILES and Fernando Malo – VIAJE MUDÉJAR. The contemporary ceramic shows ended up being more engaging than expected. This happens often enough that we should stop being surprised by it: give us a compact museum, a specific local craft tradition, and a few quiet rooms, and we are usually happy.

The trip also had its share of small church stops and neighborhood discoveries, including Parroquia de San Andrés. There, as in other Sevillian churches, the richly dressed devotional sculptures reminded us how visual and theatrical religious culture can be in this part of Spain. Even when you are not there for Holy Week, the preparations, imagery, and devotional atmosphere are never very far away.


Food, Coffee, and the Real Itinerary


Food and coffee filled in the rest of the days, as they tend to do when a trip is short and the official plan is deliberately loose.

Our first dinner was at Marabunda Sevilla Restaurante tapas Bar, a lively tapas spot near our hotel. Lunch on Christmas Eve was at Bar Manolo León – JUAN PABLOS, followed the next day by Christmas lunch at Restaurante conTenedor, a more ingredient-focused Andalusian restaurant. (We would return again for lunch at conTenedor - one of our favorite dining experiences of the trip.) Christmas day dinner was a simpler tapas affair at La Sede – Tapas Bar, while our final night wrapped up with tapas at Bar Sal Gorda.

One food discovery that followed us home was ajo blanco, the chilled Andalusian soup made from almonds, bread, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, water, and salt. It is often described as a white gazpacho, though that undersells it a little. The version we kept ordering was cool, creamy, sharp, and nutty, usually served with grapes, sometimes with a drizzle of olive oil or a few almonds on top. It is mostly associated with warm weather, especially in Andalusia, where cold soups make obvious sense, but eating it in December did not seem wrong to us. Seville at Christmas still has enough southern light to make chilled almond soup feel perfectly reasonable. Since returning home, we have been making it ourselves, which is always a sign that a trip has successfully altered the kitchen.

Coffee stops were an important side mission of the trip. After our Triana museum visit we stopped at Selva Coffee for a pour-over and some light bites. Very nice vibe. Later we tried Kioscoffee Sevilla, Hispalis Café, and East Crema Coffee Santa María, several of which appeared on the European Coffee Trip guide we were loosely following.

“Loosely following” is the key phrase. Specialty coffee lists are useful, but they also have a way of turning grown adults into migratory birds with tote bags. We tried to keep things reasonable, which means we only crossed town for coffee a few times and pretended each time it was on the way to something else.

A Slower Return


In the end, the holiday closures mattered less than we expected. Seville works well when you slow down: wandering streets, stopping for coffee, crossing bridges, drifting into churches, and occasionally circling back to places you visited years earlier.

It was not a trip built around checking off major sights. We had already done some of that in 2014. This time was more about testing the pleasure of return: seeing what felt familiar, what had changed, and what we noticed only because we were not trying quite so hard.

A few days in Seville at Christmas gave us less access to formal attractions, but maybe more access to the city as a lived place. Or at least to the version of the city available to two people walking between meals, mildly under-planned, and still capable of being pleased by a good tile, a river path, and a decent pour-over.


Photos


Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo - Seville, Spain Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo - Seville, Spain Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo - Seville, Spain
Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo - Seville, Spain

Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo - Seville, Spain Centro Cerámica Triana - Seville, Spain
Left: Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo 01 - Seville, Spain
Right: Centro Cerámica Triana - Seville, Spain


Centro Cerámica Triana Collection - Seville, Spain CENTRO CERÁMICA TRIANA PERFILES CENTRO CERÁMICA TRIANA  - Fernando Malo VIAJE MUDÉJAR
Left: Centro Cerámica Triana - Seville, Spain.
Center: Centro Cerámica Triana - Exhibit PERFILES
Right: Centro Cerámica Triana  - Exhibit Fernando Malo VIAJE MUDÉJAR

Coffee - East Crema Coffee Santa María (Specialty Coffee Sevilla) Coffee - Selva Coffee - Seville, Spain Coffee - Kioscoffee Seville, Spain
Left: East Crema Coffee Santa María (Specialty Coffee Sevilla)
Center: Kioscoffee Seville, Spain
Right: Selva Coffee - Seville, Spain


Food at Alma Mater Terraza Restaurante - Ajo blanco Food at Bar Manolo León - JUAN PABLOS - Ajo blanco Food at Bar Manolo León - JUAN PABLOS - Salmorejo Cordobés
Left: Food at Alma Mater Terraza Restaurante - Ajo blanco
Center: Food at Bar Manolo León - JUAN PABLOS - Ajo blanco
Right: Food at Bar Manolo León - JUAN PABLOS - Salmorejo Cordobés


Food at Bar Sal Gorda - Ceviche Food at conTenedor - arroz crujiente Food at La Sede - Tapas Bar -Tuna
Left: Food at Bar Sal Gorda - Ceviche
Center: Food at conTenedor - arroz crujiente
Right: Food at La Sede - Tapas Bar -Tuna


Food at conTenedor - eggplant Food at conTenedor - Seville, Spain Inside of conTenedor - Seville, Spain
Left: Food at conTenedor - eggplant
Center: Menu at conTenedor - Seville, Spain
Right: Inside of conTenedor - Seville, Spain



Jardines del Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain Laberinto of the Jardines del Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain Laberinto of the Jardines del Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain
Left: Jardines del Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain
Center: Laberinto of the Jardines del Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain
Right: Laberinto of the Jardines del Guadalquivir - Seville, Spain


Jardines de Murillo - Seville, Spain Parque de María Luisa - Seville, Spain Parque de María Luisa - Seville, Spain
Left: Jardines de Murillo - Seville, Spain
Center and right: Parque de María Luisa - Seville, Spain


Setas de Seville, Spain Setas de Seville, Spain Setas de Seville, Spain 
Setas de Sevilla

Statue - Francisco Palacios 'El Pali' - Seville, Spain Statue - Pastora Imperio - Seville, Spain Statue - Pietro Torrigiano - San Jerónimo penitente (c. 1525) - Seville, Spain
Left: Statue of Francisco Palacios 'El Pali' - Seville, Spain
Center: Statue of Pastora Imperio - Seville, Spain
Right: Statue by Pietro Torrigiano - San Jerónimo penitente (c. 1525) - Seville, Spain

Statue - Gustavo Adolfo Becquer Monument - Seville, Spain Statue - Monumento a Bartolomé Esteban Murillo - Seville, Spain Statue - Monumento a la Infanta Maria Luisa - Seville, Spain
Left: Statue - Gustavo Adolfo Becquer Monument - Seville, Spain
Center: Statue - Monumento a Bartolomé Esteban Murillo - Seville, Spain
Right: Statue - Monumento a la Infanta Maria Luisa - Seville, Spain

Friday, January 23, 2015

Seville – A Few Graffiti and Street Art Shots

Left: Toreador! Seville, Middle and Left: Bull and Bear Face
Toreador! SevilleBull Street Art

We didn’t wander far from the Sevilla center (around the cathedral or juderia) and consequently didn’t see much in the way of graffiti or street art. Here’s a couple of shots. Our favorite is the toreador (bullfighter) which as on the the actual arena in Sevilla (Real Masestranza de Caballería de Seivlla) or very close.

For more information about our A Tour of Andalusia: Córdoba, Seville and Granada.

Graffiti Doors in Seville
Grafitti Door SevilleGrafitti Door Seville

Left: Graduating Students of Years Past Put Their Name on the Cathedral; Right: A Face with Teeth
Graduating Students of Years Past Put Their Name on the Cathedral
A Face with Teeth