Capù at the End of the Trail – Lago Branchino

Overview ~ Notes ~ Geology ~ Flora ~ Photos

  

Left: View north toward Passo dei Laghi Gemelli.
Center: Hike route from Valcanale to Lago Branchino and back.
Right: Food - Capù con polenta at Rifugio Alpe Corte.

The Third Time’s a charm? Maybe.

We generally don’t repeat hikes, except for destinations very close that we start out on foot from the house like Canto Alto, Canto Basso, Maresana, or Misma. So, it is interesting that we’ve been to Lago Branchino three times over 10 or so years. We generally want the next valley, the next rifugio, the unexplored trail. But today, we were invited to participate, and when a free and easy ride to the mountain arrives at the doorstep, you get in and don’t make too much of a fuss even if it’s been a hike, you’ve already done.

Overview

Duration: 4.5 hours with stops for snacks and lunch (3 hours walking)
Elevation: 736 m
Length: 10.8 km
Location: Val Seriana – Valcanale

Parking for this hike is typically in one or two big lots at the end of the Valcanale when you can’t go any more like here and here. The higher lots (or maybe all) require a ticket that you can buy at a bar/cafe on your way in or at a ticket machine.

From the parking lots, just follow the well marked trails. You’ll be following bits of Sentiero 218A: Giro dell'Alpe Neel, Sentiero 218: Rifugio Alpe Corte - Baita GAN, and at the start Sentiero 220: Ardesio - Valcanale - Rifugio Alpe Corte.

Notes

We have a “three nights minimum in a city” rule when traveling for more than a few days. Why don’t we have a “three visit rule” for hikes? Maybe we should start thinking about that: three hikes are how a trail starts becoming a place rather than an itinerary. And as you will see, we learned a little more about Lago Branchino and ate something interesting!

In fact, during this hike we had a small sense of becoming local through repetition. Times we've passed this way:

• Hike in Valcanale: Rifugio Branchino and Lago Branchino - early July
• An Early Spring Hike to Lago Branchino in Valcanale (Ardesio), in the Upper Val Seriana - early April
• Seven Days on the Sentiero delle Orobie – A Journey Through the Bergamo Alps - mid July

And we sort of lied; this would be our fourth time passing by Rifugio Alpe Corte (lower part of the hike). We forgot we did it on our Sentiero delle Orobie trek. How easily do we forget.

On the other hand, some things are hard to forget, like where to stop for coffee on our way up Val Seriana whereas our companions (Bergamaschi) forgot. That place is Minuscoli, where we always stop on our way to hike or ski in Val Seriana. We’ve stopped so many times with different friends; it’s a habit.

Parking for this hike is typically in one or two big lots at the end of the Valcanale when you can’t go any more like here and here. The higher lots (or maybe all) require a ticket that you can buy at a bar/cafe on your way in or at a ticket machine.

From the parking lots, just follow the well marked trails. You’ll be following bits of Sentiero 218A: Giro dell'Alpe Neel, Sentiero 218: Rifugio Alpe Corte - Baita GAN, and at the start Sentiero 220: Ardesio - Valcanale - Rifugio Alpe Corte.

After parking, we headed straight for the Lago Branchino (1,784 m) bypassing the always busy Rifugio Alpe Corte, which we would return to later. Just before the lake, we stopped at Rifugio Branchino (1,787 m) for coffee and cake. After coffee and cake we went up the pass just beyond and above the lake. A mass was in progress, people spread out on the hillside listening to the sermon.

We left before the amen and headed back down to Rifugio Alpe Corte (1,410 m) for lunch. It’s there that we saw on the menu and much to our surprise capù con polenta. (Love culinary surprises!)

A friend’s aunt once made something similar, but she called it nosècc, another name for it. But this was the first time we ever saw it in a rifugio. (See, this is why we want new rifugio for every hike.... our stomachs demand it.)

Capù con polenta is a dish that belongs to the Bergamo valleys through and through. Capù are cabbage rolls traditionally filled with breadcrumbs, local cheese, egg, garlic and parsley; later versions often include pork or sausage. The historic Parre/Val Seriana version is di magro, without meat. The name means “capon” in dialect, and your lunch note includes the lovely folklore about poor mountain families making a cabbage-leaf “capon” for a child who couldn't have the real bird.

Geology

While we have visited this small lake before, we didn’t truly appreciate the geology of this area until we wrote this post.

Lago Branchino is a small, alpine karst lake located at an altitude of approximately 1,784 meters within the Orobie Bergamasche Regional Park in Lombardy, Italy. But what does that mean? A karst lake is a geological formation dictated by karstification. Thanks, but still not helpful. Karstification occurs when soluble bedrock is dissolved by water. Karst lakes are formed as the result of a collapse of caves, especially in water-soluble rocks such as limestone, gypsum and dolomite.

Intriguing, tell me more.

The vast majority of alpine lakes in the Orobian range are formed by glacial excavation carving out impermeable granite or slate basins, Lago Branchino is an exception because:

• Soluble Limestone Bedrock: The lake sits in a high-altitude basin surrounded by the limestone and dolomite peaks of Corno Branchino and Corna Piana. Over millennia, acidic rainwater and melting snow slowly dissolved the calcium carbonate in the rock. This chemical weathering ate away at the mountain surface, opening up cracks, fissures, and ultimately collapsing underground voids to form a natural depression known as a doline or sinkhole.
• The Sealed "Lakebed" Effect: Usually, water in a limestone landscape immediately drains straight down through the porous rock into subterranean cave networks. Lago Branchino holds water because its shallow bed is layered with a thick buildup of insoluble clay, silt, and organic sediment. This residual material has acted as a natural waterproof plug, blocking the underlying rock fractures and allowing water to collect pool-style in the basin rather than draining into the mountain.
• Exclusively Rain and Snow-Fed: True to karst lake behavior, Lago Branchino has no surface inlets (streams or rivers) flowing into it. It is entirely fed by precipitation, surface runoff, and subterranean snowmelt. Because it lacks a steady surface river supply, the lake water level can fluctuate significantly depending on the season and dry spells.

Nearby the lake are the limestone peaks of Corno Branchino and Corna Piana. 

Lago Branchino serves as a central hub for hikers traversing the Bergamasque Alps. Right next to its western shore sits the seasonal mountain hut, Rifugio Lago Branchino. Someday, we going to do the Sentiero dei fiori, which passes through the pass (where the mass was being held).

Flora

The end of August was not the best time for flower spotting. We managed to get just a few.

[Asteraceae] Carlina acaulis
 

[Asteraceae] Centaurea sp.


[Asteraceae] Solidago sp. with hoverfly
 

[Gentianaceae] Gentiana asclepiadea
 

[Ranunculaceae] Aconitum napellus
 

Photos

  

Left and center: Mass at Passo del Branchino (1,821 m).

Right: One of the flock has escaped. Bergamasca - pecora gigante.

 

Left: Baita Bassa Alpe Neel above Valcanale.

Right: Sign showing biodiversity of the area - all the flowers and butterflies we didn't see today!

  

Left: Capù con polenta at Rifugio Alpe Corte.
Center: Penne con crema di porcini, tartufo and taleggio at Rifugio Alpe Corte.

Right: Rifugio Alpe Corte coffee and cake.

 

Left: Coffee and cake at Rifugio Branchino.

Right: Rifugio Alpe Corte menu.

  

Left: Above Valcanale, looking east over Alpe Neel.

Center: Pasture above Valcanale with view toward Passo dei Laghi Gemelli.

Right: View from pastures looking east with Monte Secco on the right.

An Early Spring Hike to Lago Branchino in Valcanale (Ardesio), in the Upper Val Seriana

 

Left: View south from Corno Branchino towoard Corna Piana.

Right: Climbing Corno Branchino

It was embarrassing. As we approached the trailhead, we assured our friend driving that we hadn’t been here and in fact, we had been here twice before. Once with this friend and once on our own. Give us a break, we are still new to this area!

Duration: 7 hours (includes lunch)

Elevation: 843 m

Length: 10.5 km

Location: Val Seriana

We first came to Valcanale – a east-west valley branching off the upper Val Seriana - in July 2018. See Hike in Valcanale: Rifugio Branchino and Lago Branchino. Can I just say, wow, we took some great photos on that day. We weren’t just using cell phone cameras at that time like we are now.

Then a few weeks later, we started our big hike in Valcanale. See Seven Days on the Sentiero delle Orobie – A Journey Through the Bergamo Alps. We arrived by bus from Bergamo that time.

Today’s hike was mostly on snow to reach Passo Branchino and return. At the pass, we went up to see the “pyramid” on top of Corno Branchino (2029 m). Given that Rifugio Branchino (1787 m) was closed, we ate at Rifugio Alpe Corte (1410 m).

Because of the snow, we don’t have many flower pictures save for [Asteraceae] Tossilago farfara – Coltsfoot and [Asteraceae] Petasites albus – White Butterbur, both of which are described in our Bergamasque Prealps Flowers and Flora Pinterest for Asteraceae page.

We saw an interesting sign in the rifugio that talked about the biodiversity of this area. We’ve wanted to hike the Sentiero dei fiori (part of which is trail 222) for some time. Still on our list. The trail goes from Passo Branchino to Rifugio Capanna 2000. The flowers on that trail are supposed to be amazing. 

The sign in the rifugio talked about insects named after local place names and/or are unique to this area including: Scythris arerai – a moth (story), Trechus montisarerae – beetle, Abax arerae – beetle, Leptusa areraensis – beetle, Ischyropsalis lithoclasica – spider, and Allegrettia comotti – beetle.  Arera(e) refers to the nearby Pizzo Arera.

  

Left: Climbing to Corno Branchino.
Center: On the south flank of Corno Branchino.

Right: View north from Corno Branchino.

  

Left: Rifugio Alpe Corte - a plate of ribs (costine) with potatoes.
Center: Rifugio Alpe Corte - torta della nonna.

Right: A sign describing the biodiversity of the area including insects found or named after local place names like Pizzo Arera.

  

Left: Heading toward Rifugio Alpe Corte.
Center: Tracks for this hike.
Right: Heading to Rifugio Branchino.

  

Left: Trail 218 near Rifugio Alpe Corte.

Center: View south from Rifugio Alpe Corte toward Pizzo Arera.

Right: Trail toward Passo Branchino in early spring, full of snow.

 

View southeast from Passo Branchio toward Passo Val Vedra. Notice the red tinge of the snow from the sands of Sahara. Each year tens of millions of tons of dust blow out from North Africa carried on strong seasonal winds. Some of that ends up in Italy.

Hike in Valcanale: Rifugio Branchino and Lago Branchino

Overview | Details | Flora | Flower Close-Ups

Top Left: Hike route in Valcanale to Lago Branchino.
Top Right: View with cows above Baita Bassa del Monte Neel, Valcanale.
Lower Left: La Transumanza - annual flock migration in Valcanale.
Lower Right: [Ranunculaceae] Trollius europeaus – Globeflower (Botton d’oro) along Lago Branchino.

Overview

Length: 9.8 km (6.1 mi)

Duration: 5.0 hours walking including ~ 1 hour spend at lunch at Rifugio Branchino

Elevation: 1.130 m (3,707 ft) @ start of hike above Babes (above Valcanale); 1.860 m (6,102) @ Passo Val Vedra

Location: Italy, Lombardy, Bergamo, Valcanale

Details

Much of what we experience in Bergamo is born of improvised and last-minute plans – in its best sense. This hike was no different being hatched the day before when friends suggested a quick trip up Valcanale to Lago Branchino, which to them is like playing in the backyard.

It just so happened to also be the day of the Festival della Trasumanza – or seasonal migration of flocks to the mountains in Valcanale, a hamlet of Ardesio.  As we were leaving the trailhead we were passed by a stream of sheep eager to get to the fresh greens waiting for them in the high pastures.

From Valcanale, you can easily reach the popular Rifugio Alpe Corte 1.410 m (4,626 ft), which is the first stop on the Sentiero delle Orobie Orientali. We bypassed Rifugio Alpe Corte and headed for Rifugio Branchino 1787 m (5,862 ft), then to Lago Branchino, and finally to Passo Val Vedra where we turned around. Trail-wise we followed sentiero 220, sentiero 218, and then sentiero 222. Sentiero 222 is called the Sentiero dei Fiori due to the high degree of biodiversity the trail goes through. The trail ends up Capanna 2000 where we hiked last year (see Hike: Cattedrale Vegetale to Capanna 2000).

Flora

In terms of interesting plants we saw on this hike and to add to our Pinterest list Bergamasque Prealp Flowers and Plants there are:

• [Orchidaceae] Nigritella nigra rhellicani  - Vanilla Orchid (Moretta, Vaniglia d’Alpe). It really smells like vanilla!
• [Orchidaceae] Traunsteinera globosa – Round-headed Orchid (Orchide dei pascoli)
• [Rosaceae] Geum rivale – Water Avens (Cariofillata dei ruscelli). So hard to get a picture of these flowers with their head hanging down.
• [Ranunculaceae] Ranunculus aconitifolius – Aconite-Leaf Buttercup (Ranuncolo a foglie di aconito)

Usual disclaimer: we use the resources listed in the post Resources for Identifying Plants around Bergamo to identify plants shown here. If we had to give ourselves a score for identifications, it would be 95% accurate for species and 98% for genus.

Key: [Family] Genus species – Common name in English (Common name in Italian)

[Apiaceae] Astrantia major – Great Masterwort (Astranzia maggiore)

[Asteraceae] Cirsium spinosissimum - Spiniest Thistle (Cardo spinosissimo)
[Asteraceae] Centaurea spp.
[Asteraceae] Crepis aurea – Golden Hawk's Beard (Radicchiella aranciata)
[Boraginaceae] Echium vulgare – Viper’s Burgloss (Viperina azzurra comune)
[Campanulaceae] Campanula trachelium – Nettle-leaved Bellflower (Campanula selvatica)
[Caprifoliaceae] Valeriana officinalis – Valerian (Valeriana comune)
[Fabaceae] Onobrychis montana – Mountain Sainfoin (Lupinella montana)

• I love the following description from Wikipedia for Onobrychis. It gives me a whole new respect for this plant. "Onobrychis means 'devoured by donkeys', from Ancient Greek ónos (ὄνος, "donkey") and brýkein (βρύκειν, "to eat greedily"). This refers to sainfoin's good properties as a forage plant for large mammalian herbivores. Sainfoin is derived from Old French sain foin ('healthy hay')."

[Lamiaceae] Laminum maculatum – Spotted Dead Nettle (Falsa ortica macchiata)
[Lamiaceae] Stachys sylvatica – Wood Woundwort (Betonica dei Boschi)
[Orchidaceae] Dactylorhiza maculata - Spotted Heath Orchid (Ochide macchiata)
[Orchidaceae] Gymnadenia conopsea – Fragrant Orchid (Manina rosea)

•      Bend down and take a whiff. This orchid is fragrant.

[Orchidaceae] Nigritella nigra rhellicani - Vanilla Orchid (Moretta, Vaniglia d’Alpe)

• There are lots of synonyms for this vanilla-scented orchid, e.g., also called Nigritella rhellicani.

[Orchidaceae] Traunsteinera globosa – Round-headed Orchid (Orchide dei pascoli)
[Plantaginanceae] Digitalis lutea – Yellow Perennial Foxglove (Digitale gialla piccola)
[Polygonaceae] Bistorta officinalis – Meadow Bistort (Poligono bistorta)
[Polygonaceae] Bistorta vivipara – Alpine Bistort (Poligono viviparo)
[Ranunculaceae] Helleborus viridis – Green Hellebore (Ellebore verde)
[Ranunculaceae] Ranunculus aconitifolius – Aconite-Leaf Buttercup (Ranuncolo a foglie di aconito)

• Leaves look like Aconitum, hence the species epithet.

[Ranunculaceae] Thalictrum aquilegifolium – Columbine Mead-Rue (Pigamo colombino)
[Ranunculaceae] Trollius europeaus – Globeflower (Botton d’oro)
[Rosaceae] Geum rivale – Water Avens (Cariofillata dei ruscelli)

Left: [Asteraceae] Centaurea spp. Center Left: [Asteraceae] Crepis aurea – Golden Hawk's Beard (Radicchiella aranciata). Center Right: [Boraginaceae] Echium vulgare – Viper’s Burgloss (Viperina azzurra comune). Right: [Campanulaceae] Campanula trachelium – Nettle-leaved Bellflower (Campanula selvatica).


Left: [Caprifoliaceae] Valeriana officinalis – Valerian (Valeriana comune). Center Left: [Fabaceae] Onobrychis montana – Mountain Sainfoin (Lupinella montana). Center Right: [Lamiaceae] Laminum maculatum – Spotted Dead Nettle (Falsa ortica macchiata). Right: [Lamiaceae] Stachys sylvatica – Wood Woundwort (Betonica dei Boschi).


Left: [Orchidaceae] Dactylorhiza maculata - Spotted Heath Orchid (Ochide macchiata). Center Left: [Orchidaceae] Gymnadenia conopsea – Fragrant Orchid (Manina rosea). Center Right: [Orchidaceae] Nigritella nigra rhellicani - Vanilla Orchid (Moretta, Vaniglia d’Alpe). Right: [Orchidaceae] Traunsteinera globosa – Round-headed Orchid (Orchide dei pascoli).


Left: [Plantaginanceae] Digitalis lutea – Yellow Perennial Foxglove (Digitale gialla piccola). Center Left: [Polygonaceae] Bistorta officinalis – Meadow Bistort (Poligono bistorta). Center Right:  [Polygonaceae] Bistorta vivipara – Alpine Bistort (Poligono viviparo). Right: [Ranunculaceae] Thalictrum aquilegifolium – Columbine Mead-Rue (Pigamo colombino).


Left: [Ranunculaceae] Helleborus viridis – Green Hellebore (Ellebore verde). Center Left and Center Right: [Ranunculaceae] Ranunculus aconitifolius – Aconite-Leaf Buttercup (Ranuncolo a foglie di aconito). Right: [Apiaceae] Astrantia major – Great Masterwort (Astranzia maggiore).


All about the food. Left: Polenta cooking at Rifugio Branchino. Center Left: Pizzoccheri - a Bergamasco dish with buckwheat pasta, potatoes and greens. Center Right: Polenta and melted cheese. Right: A tagliere (cutting board literally) with local meets and cheeses. 


Left: View from Passo Val Vedra looking back toward Valcanale. Center and Right: Views of Lago Branchino.


Scenes below Rifugio Branchino and above Baita Bassa del Monte Neel.


Left: Trail 222 - Passo Branchino heading south. Center: Hiking up Trail 220 with a pig. Right: Passo Val Vedra looking approximately south toward the pianura padana.


Left: Sign for the Sentiero dei Fiori. Right: Sign explaining La Transumanza.

Flower Close-Ups

All the photos up this point were taken on an iPhone 8. The pictures below were taken with a Canon EOS M6.

Left: [Asteraceae] Cirsium spinosissimum - Spiniest Thistle (Cardo spinosissimo). Right: [Orchidaceae] Nigritella nigra rhellicani - Vanilla Orchid (Moretta, Vaniglia d’Alpe).


Left: [Rosaceae] Geum rivale – Water Avens (Cariofillata dei ruscelli). Right: [Polygonaceae] Bistorta officinalis – Meadow Bistort (Poligono bistorta).


[Asteraceae] Centaurea spp.