Showing posts with label brescia province. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brescia province. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 10, 2024

A Visit to Parco Naquane to See Paleolithic and Neolithic Rock Drawings in the Val Camonica


Rock 50 - side view Rock 1 - Sector T Rock 35 - The running priest - close-up Rock 50 - figure
Naquane Park - view toward Concarena Naquane Park - first view upon entering View from Parco Naquane - east toward Concarena
Top row: Rock carvings in Val Camonica, Italy: rock 50, rock 1 - warriors on horses, rock 35 - running priest, rock 50 - warrior.
Bottom row: View over Capo di Ponte toward Concarena peak. Entrance of the Naquane Park.

Overview


We’ve been up and down this valley half a dozen times and never had the opportunity to stop until today to see the petroglyphs. The what!? The petroglyphs or rock drawings of Valcamonica, recognized by UNESCO in 1979. It was Italy’s first recognized site.

All the rock drawings taken together represents rock carvings/art going back to the 8th-6th millennium BC. Pretty impressive.

Today, we stopped in just one of many parks in the region and spent a few hours. We are at Capo di Ponte, in the Province of Brescia, Italy. Specifically, we are just on the edge of the village and uphill in the Parco nazionale delle incisioni rupestri di Naquane.

This park was created in 1955 by the Archaeological Superintendence of Lombardy, extends over 35 hectares on hills east of the Oglio river, ranging in altitude from 400 to 600 meters above sea-level. There are many paths within the park that allow you to get up close to the engravings.

Some resources to help:

  • Ample parking here: location.
  • Google Street View of the site.
  • The park is ordered by “rocks”. Think of each rock like a huge canvas. (Who knows what other canvases lie beneath the moss and debris?)
  • Up close the “great” rock: Naquane Great Rock, Valcamonica, virtual tour entry (europreart.net)
  • We spent about 1.5 hours here and didn’t see it all! (We only show a couple of the “rocks” here.) We had planned to see the nearby Rock art Natural reserve of Ceto, Cimbergo and Paspardo as well but a lunch appointment beckoned us to leave. We’ll be back!
  • If you are looking for a fun lunch spot, try Osteria Concarena in the cute village of Cerveno.

About Val Camonica:

  • Val Camonica one of the largest valleys of the central Alps, in eastern Lombardy, Italy. We travel up and down the valley going from Bergamo to Ponte di Legno / Passo del Tonale (for all sorts of outdoor activities). It’s a slightly less efficient timewise to get to Merano. (See A Week in Merano, Italy – Hiking.) Finally, if you haven’t seen the Presena glacier covered in summer to protect it, you don’t know what sad is. (See Presena Glacier – A summer visit to the covered glacier.)
  • Not only are the rock drawings inscribed in UNESCO, but the whole valley is also a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. This valley is happening. Many of our “local” wines come from the valley.
  • Val Camonica is derived from the Latin Vallis Camunnorum, "Valley of the Camunni."
  • The Camuni or Camunni were an ancient population located in Val Camonica during the Iron Age (1st millennium BC); the Latin name Camunni was attributed to them by the authors of the 1st century.

Rock 1: The Great Rock


This rock has more than two thousand figures engraved over its surface; it is not easy to see them all, even less to remember them. The most ancient figures, very few, date back to the recent phases of the Neolithic, six thousand years ago. The great majority of the others were engraved during the end of the Bronze Age and above all (over 80%) throughout the Iron Age, during the 1st millennium BC.


Rock 1 - animals and hunters Rock 1 - Hunter with long spear Rock 1 - Sector I
Rock 1, the Great Rock in Parco Naquane, Val Camonica: animals and hunters (left), hunter with long spear (center), Sector I (right).

Rock 1 - Deer and mystery shovel Rock 1 - labyrinth Rock 1 - Sector G
Rock 1: Deer and mystery shovel (left), labyrinth (center), Sector G (right).

Rock 1 - information board Rock 1 - information board Rock 1 - View from one side
Rock 1 information boards and view of rock 1 and viewing boardwalk.

Rock 1 - View from top Rock 1 - view with cat Rock 1 - mysterious shovels
Views of rock 1 in Parco Naquane, Val Camonia (left), with cat (center), with mystery shovel carvings (right). 

Rock 23: “Four-wheeled Wagon”


The wagon scene on rock 23 was carved with a double perspective: a depiction device commonly used in the ancient times to make all the parts of an object visible: the wagon itself is represented from above while the four radiant wheels and the two horses are seen from a lateral point of view.

Rock 23 - Four-wheeled wagon Rock 23 - information board
Rock 23: wagon carving (left) and information board (right).

Rock 35: “The Running Priest” and “Cammunian Village”.


The so-called "running priest" is lively figure that looks like it could have been done in our times. It is a male figure wearing a head gear with back bent feathers. The figure raises one of his arms while the other rests on his hip and his legs bent in a way that may suggest a running or a dance. This figure dates to the Iron Age.

Rock 35 - Cammunian Village in the winter sun Rock 35 - The Cammunian Village Rock 35 - The running priest 
Rock 35: Communian village (left and center) and running priest (right).

Rock 35 - View down the Val Camonica Rock 35 - information board
Left: boardwalk around rock 35 and view south down Val Camonica (left) and information board (right).

Rock 44: Halberd-Axes


We didn’t find them, but include a photo from that rock.

Rock 44 - information board Rock 44 - petroglyphs - rock carvings
Rock 44: Information board and carvings.


Rock 50: Prayers, knights, "the big warrior", inscriptions.


The first rock you come upon after entering the park. Depending on the light, you might not think there is anything there but look carefully to see looms, labyrinth, and the mysterious shovels.

The shovel engravings, whose first appearance dates back to the Middle-Late Bronze Age (16th-13th centuries BC), have been object of several interpretations, Among the most interesting ones it is worth mentioning the resemblance with razors discovered among grave goods in cremation burials, which is also associated with the habit of collecting the ashes of the departed. Bronze shovels have been also found in women graves both of the Golasecca Celts and of the palaeo-Venetic regions, where they are supposed to be linked to domestic activities. Finally, we must indicate the votive function of shovel groups, interpreted as symbolic representations of votive offerings. Therefore, the shovel in Valle Camonica rock art seems to have both a male and female value, and also suggests a different use of the object according to the figurative context where it is placed.
  
Rock 50 - Big Warrior  Rock 50 - prayers Rock 50 - viewing boardwalk
Rock 50: Big warrior (left), prayers (center), boardwalk around rock (right).

Rock 50 - slanting light Rock 50 - viewing boardwalk Rock 50 - View of surface
Rock 50: Winter light on rock carvings (left), viewing platform (center), fractured surface (right).

Rock 50 - warriors Rock 50 - prayers 
Rock 50: warriors (left) and prayers (right).

Rock 50 - information board Rock 50 - information board Rock 50 - information board
Rock 50: information boards.

General Park photos


 Naquane Park - path leading to entrance Parco Naquane - path Parco Naquane - info
Entrance to the park (left and center) and history of park (right).

Parco Naquane - along one of the entrances to the park Parco Naquane - petroglyphs and moss Parco Naquane - Concarena Mountain
House on the climb to the park (left), moss and rock carving (center), view over Val Camonica from the park (right).








Tuesday, August 29, 2023

A Visit to ACE High - NATO IDGZ Station at Dosso dei Galli, Brescia Italy


Approaching Dosso dei Galli IDGZ from Passo ManivaTropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
Under one of the troposcatter antennas of Dosso dei Galli IDGZTropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZStanding in front of one of the troposcatter antennas
Top row - left: Approaching the ACE High IDGZ base in Italy.
Top row - right:  Tropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ.
Bottom row - left: The troposcatter antennas of Dosso dei Galli IDGZ.

Overview


We were on our way to a hike (see A Hike to Laghetti di Bruffione) and our friends decided to take us through Passo della Spina (explained below) and then past this ex-radiocommunication station. When they asked if we wanted to get out and see it, we jumped at the chance.

We are in Valle Sabbia, in the Brescia province, in the Brescia and Garda Prealps, part of the larger Southern Rhaetian Alps. The landscape is idyllic, with the mountains and pastures shared alike by cows, goats, walkers, skiers, and bikers. On the day we visit, a local farmer sells cheese at the entrance to the site. It’s in this context that the NATO communication base was constructed in the early 1960s.

Growing up, we’d heard of the “cold war” and NATO (North Atlantic Treaty Organization), but we treated them as abstract concepts belonging to the generation before us. But there are not. Today, “cold war” and NATO come up just as often; they are terms of our generation and subsequent ones. Coming to this abandoned base spurred us to think about these terms and why NATO was created.

Station


The station was part of the Allied Command Europe Highband (ACE High), a NATO radiocommunication and early warning system that was operational between 1965 and 1995. This station is at 2,196 m (7,205 ft) on a mountain in the province of Bergamo. The station was one of a backbone of stations extending from Norway to Turkey.

The system was shut down because newer technologies became available, and the frequency band used in the ACE High needed to be returned to the civilian sector. A good write-up, with beautiful pictures is at One Man, One Map.

The ACE High system used a method of communication called tropospheric scatter (troposcatter), where radio signals are aimed just above the horizon in the direction of a listening station. Some of the signal passes through the troposphere but some is scattered back toward the earth allowing the receiver to pick it up. Troposcatter antennas have to be large to pick up the signal and focus the beam for sending signals. The size of the antennas at Dosso dei Galli are about 20 m high. The squared-off version of typical parabolic antennas is referred to as a “billboard”, which is what you see at Dosso dei Galli.

One billboard antenna at Dosso dei Galli communicated with Feldberg (Schwarzwald), Germany (AFEZ). The other antenna it says communicated with Livorno – Monte Giogo (IMXZ) and Cavriana – Monte Bosco Scuro (IMBZ).

Name


The name of the hill the abandoned stations occupies is called Dosso dei Galli (location), named for the gallo cedrone that once made their nests there. A gallo cedrone (Tetrao urogallus) is known as a western capercaillie, Eurasian capercaillie, or wood grouse. We did not see any birds while we were visiting. Could it be the fact that the top part of the mountain was removed to create a flat space for the base was not enticing to them? See photos here of before and after. The top 79 m (260 ft) of the mountain was removed.

Arriving


To get to the station, go to Giogo del Maniva and then continue on to SP345 north to find the station here. These are asphalt roads.

We took a route that was a bit more scenic that involved dirt roads not for cars. From Rifugio Rosa di Baremone, following Via Passo Maniva we went to Giogo del Maniva on an old military route called Passo della Spina. It’s a dirt road, with sheer drop-offs and often not enough space for two cars to pass by normally. (One usually backs up to a place where the two can pass.) You shouldn’t travel this road in a car. We were in a jeep with an experienced driver. There were lots of motorcycles and bikers on the route as well.

Photos


A the entrance to the ex-base - a local farmer sells cheeseApproaching the site from belowView from a window at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
Left: At the entrance to the ex-base - a local farmer sells cheese.
Center: Approaching the IDGZ Dosso dei Galli.
Right: View from a window at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ.

Back of a troposcatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZBack of a troposcatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZBack of troposcatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
Back of a troposcatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ.

Bottom of troposcatter antenna with humans for scaleEntering the site Dosso dei Galli IDGZTropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
Left: Bottom of troposcatter antenna with humans for scale.
Center: Entering the site Dosso dei Galli IDGZ in Italy.
Right: Tropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ.

Graffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZGraffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZGraffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZGraffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
Graffiti at ACE High ex-NATO IDGZ station at Dosso dei Galli.

Graffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZGraffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZGraffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZGraffiti at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
Graffiti at ACE High ex-NATO IDGZ station at Dosso dei Galli.  One says "L'Eco di Bergamo nuoce gravemente alla salute" or "The Eco di Bergamo [newspaper] seriously damages your health."

Station support buildings IDGZInside Dosso dei Galli IDGZInside Dosso dei Galli IDGZInside Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
The abandoned buildings at Dosso dei Galli.

The back of one of the troposcatter antennasTropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZTropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZTropospheric scatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli IDGZ
A troposcatter antenna at Dosso dei Galli, in the province of Brescia Italy.