Showing posts with label japan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label japan. Show all posts

Monday, May 11, 2026

Planning a Trip to Death, Then Going Anyway



Sometimes for us obsessive people it feels like modern travel begins long before departure. Not at the airport or on the train. Not even when the suitcase comes out of the closet.

It begins months earlier, somewhere between opening Google Maps for the tenth time and learning the names of neighborhoods we've never visited. And, at this point you already have a pin collection of hotels, coffee stops, and sights in a city you are not even sure you'll visit.

In this light, we want to talk about how trip research itself has become a form of travel, at times as suggestive and powerful as the actual visit.

Proto-Travel


At some point, planning stops being preparation and starts becoming something else. It's like a low-grade form of mental relocation.

Before our recent trips to Spain and our ongoing planning for Japan, we realized we were already partially living in those places, at least in our heads. We knew train transfers before stepping onto the platforms. We had opinions about neighborhoods we had never walked through. We recognized street names from maps and videos. We knew where we wanted coffee in Seville and Osaka before we had even booked all the hotels.

Research has become a kind of proto-travel. It's not the trip itself, obviously. But also, it is no longer entirely separate from it.

Modern travel planning makes this easy. We can study routes, walk streets virtually, read years of blog posts, compare transit options, watch train departures in real time, and obsess over whether a transfer in Tokyo Station is psychologically manageable with luggage and jet lag. Add the modern AI assistant and it all goes into overdrive.

Of course, this did not start with Google Maps or AI. Years ago, in our 2012 post Too Many Maps - Iceland Case Study, we came home from Iceland with a small paper ecosystem: tourist maps, dining maps, bus maps, rental-car maps, promotional maps, and probably a few maps whose only function was to make us feel guilty about throwing them away. Proto-travel existed then too in a way. It was just folded badly and stuffed into a plastic bin that you eventually recycled.

With proto-travel, the unfamiliar slowly starts to feel familiar, and travel research compresses geographic distance.

Not Everyone Travels This Way


To be clear, this is not how travel has to work. It is how modern travel often works for us, because we choose it. We are not trying to program every hour of every day, though it may look suspiciously like that from the outside. The point is almost the opposite: to create enough understanding that opportunities can arise once we are there. A little intel work can make a trip more open, not less.

Some travelers book the flights, reserve a place to sleep, and let the rest unfold on the ground. There is a lot to admire in that. It sounds liberating. It also sounds, for us, like a controlled experiment in mild anxiety.

Others hand the reins to a travel company, which can be exactly right. There are trips where having someone else solve the logistics is not laziness but wisdom. Still, that is usually not where the pleasure is for us, at least for most trips.

Constructed Familiarity


One interesting side effect of all this preparation is the strange feeling of arriving somewhere that already feels vaguely remembered.

The obsessive planning, and yes, we call it that, also tickles the research bone. We like understanding a place in albeit a limited way before arriving, not because we think we can master it from a distance, but because a little preparation lets us go deeper once there. We get more experiential value. We notice more. We ask better questions. We waste less energy on avoidable confusion and leave more room for the interesting kind of confusion.

For our Seville Christmas 2025 trip (see Seville at Christmas: A Short Return to a Familiar City), we found ourselves navigating toward places we somehow already "knew." We had mentally rehearsed the rhythm of the days before they happened. We already had ideas about quiet morning walks, Christmas closures, and how neighborhoods connected.

With our Lanzarote trip (see Lanzarote - In the Layers), the research became even more immersive. Before arriving, we had already built a mental picture of volcanic landscapes, cactus gardens, wind-shaped terrain, and the strange visual contrast between black lava fields and whitewashed buildings. We were not just researching a destination anymore. We were constructing a framework for understanding it.

For our Japan 2025 trip (see 21 days in Japan – Observations and Tips), our preparation and therefore beforehand familiarity was taken to new levels. We were not contracting with an agency to do all the groundwork for us and instead arranged all the logistics ourselves. With a sizable language barrier and sheer unfamiliarity with the culture, we overcompensated you might say, on the planning.

For our upcoming Japan 2026 planning, you might think we have relaxed a bit. But no, we haven't. The drive to optimize and honestly just understand and create the opportunity for an experience has us again at a fevered pitch. We have spent evenings discussing Osaka coffee-shop clusters, Hiroshima tram routes, whether Amanohashidate makes more sense than Kinosaki-Onsen, and how many train transfers are acceptable in one day.

A recent trip to Fez (see Five Days in Fez, Morocco) was another version of this, though delayed in its execution. In summer 2023, we researched a trip for that fall in Morocco, mentally relocating ourselves into the medina before ever setting foot there. Then the September 2023 earthquake happened in Morocco, and for various reasons the plan went quiet for a while. The imagined trip was folded away, like one of those Iceland maps we couldn't quite throw out. When a friend later suggested a short trip to Fez, much of that old research suddenly became useful again. Not complete, not current, not enough to replace fresh thinking, but enough to give shape to the possibility.

This is another thing travel planning teaches: sometimes you have to be willing to set a plan aside without mourning it too much. A researched trip is not wasted just because it doesn't happen on schedule. Sometimes it waits for a better time.

Planning as Relationship Work


In a previous post, Why do we travel?, we tried to sort out what we actually get from travel: vanity, relaxation, exploration, companions, awe, and all the uncomfortable little negotiations that happen when people leave home together. 

Planning also forces many aspects of the why-do-we-travel question. A question that sounds simple until you try to answer it. Rest? Beauty? Food? Difficulty? Novelty? A sense of being elsewhere? A day with no decisions? A day with exactly the right number of decisions? In that sense, travel planning becomes an exercise in self-knowledge before it becomes an actual itinerary.

Planning a trip with a partner adds another dimension entirely, where travel planning becomes a kind of relationship rehearsal. Before the trip even begins, you are already negotiating pace, comfort, priorities, interests, tolerances, and expectations. 

One person dreams about quiet ryokans and long contemplative baths. The other may be thinking: "How long exactly are we supposed to sit in hot water?"

That realization recently reshaped our Japan planning. For example, Kinosaki-Onsen occupied a glowing place in my imagined upcoming itinerary: canal walks, yukata, atmospheric inns, slow evenings, public baths. It looked perfect in the abstract. But eventually I had to confront something obvious: the other half of my travel party is simply not a spa person.

So why exactly were we going there?

Good trip planning sometimes means abandoning the version of the trip you had already started mentally living in, and that can be surprisingly difficult. The planner often becomes emotionally attached to the researched version of the trip. Routes become narratives. Hotels become symbols. Carefully optimized itineraries can start to feel inevitable.

Then your partner says: "I don't think I would actually enjoy that." And they are probably right.

Travel planning becomes a small test of flexibility and empathy. You are not designing an abstractly good trip. You are designing a shared experience for actual humans. And the best planning decision may be to delete something you had your heart set on.

The Limits of Research


Of course, the researched version of a place is always flatter than the lived one because reality refuses complete reconstruction.

No amount of reading prepares you for exhaustion, weather, smells, awkward moments, getting lost, overheard conversations, or the random bakery that becomes your strongest memory of a city.

Tokyo was perhaps our clearest example of this gap between research and reality. On paper and during planning, it initially resolved into something simple in our heads: a giant city. Dense. Efficient. Overwhelming perhaps. But once there, it unfolded into something much more layered and human. It felt less like one city than many interconnected cities stitched together. Quiet side streets suddenly emerged beside giant stations. Tiny neighborhood coffee shops existed just blocks from overwhelming commercial corridors. And perhaps most surprising was the everyday politeness and cleanliness. We had read about it, of course, but experiencing it directly was something else entirely (see Japan Trip – A Salute to People We Saw and Cleanliness).

The same thing happened in Seville with the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo. During planning, it was just another museum pin on the map, one item among many. But in practice, visiting it became a whole-day experience. Crossing the river, wandering the grounds of the former monastery, getting slightly lost, eating oranges in the garden, and feeling temporarily removed from the tourist center of the city itself. The experience expanded far beyond what our research outlined.

And during our June 2026 trip through Normandy and Brittany (see 8 Day Getaway in France: Honfleur and Douarnenez), we realized that no amount of planning had prepared us for how deeply the countryside would affect us. The hedgerows, fields, small roads, changing light, and layered greens were not things we had really researched in detail. Yet they became one of the emotional centers of the trip.

Travel ultimately exceeds the models we build of it; otherwise there would be little reason to leave home at all. And thankfully so. The trip still has to happen.

And perhaps that is why research remains pleasurable. It brings us closer to another place without fully collapsing the distance. The destination remains slightly out of reach, preserving the possibility of surprise. Research becomes part of the journey, but never the whole thing.

We plan not to eliminate surprises, but to make better surprises possible.


Fez cat, sipping like us, from pool of information.

Wednesday, June 11, 2025

Temples and Shrines, Gardens and Connection to Nature in Japan

A composite image of 25 flowers and plants we saw in Japan
A composite image of 25 plants and flowers we saw in Japan.

It's been 2 weeks since our Japan trip and we are still sorting through pictures. Unsurprisingly, we are finding many plant photos. The composite image for this post shows some of these photos; all of the photos were taken in a temple or shrine, which got use thinking about the function of these spaces in Japanese cities.

Japan’s temples and shrines offer a tranquil escape from the bustling cities, often nestled in landscapes filled with lush greenery. These sacred sites, whether Buddhist temples or Shinto shrines, are not just places of worship but also havens of nature, where you can relax under towering sugi trees, walk alongside moss gardens and or sip tea in a teahouse gazing out at a curated garden.

Some estimates state that Japan has approximately 80,000 shrines and temples across the country. This means that in many cities, these spiritual sites are as common as convenience stores. With that ubiquity it's easy to get in the trap of trying to see them all. It became clear to us after a few days in Japan that no, we don’t need to see them all, and we should choose ones that were interesting to us.

Japan has a remarkably diversity of flora when you consider its relatively small land area. This is due thanks to the country’s geographical 3,000 kilometers range from the subarctic north of Hokkaido to the subtropical south of Okinawa. This variation in climate allows for a wide array of plant species, including evergreen forests in the south, broad-leaved deciduous forests in central Japan, and alpine vegetation in the mountainous regions.

Beyond these observations, it’s important to note that Japanese culture has a deep, almost intrinsic connection with nature, and this relationship is fostered both through formal education and longstanding cultural practices. We could sense this connection. Even in a city like Tokyo, stepping into alley from a main road, we would find plants adorning entrances or facades.

From an early age, children learn about the natural world in school, often through field trips to local parks, temples, and natural reserves. These experiences, alongside lessons in the classroom, are designed to instill not only an appreciation for the beauty of Japan’s diverse landscapes but also a sense of responsibility for preserving them. This early education is complemented by the cultural ethos shaped by Shinto and Buddhist traditions, where nature itself is revered as sacred. Children grow up seeing natural elements—be they mountains, forests, or even interesting plants in temple gardens—as important parts of their heritage and daily lives.

Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Kamakura, Japan – Two Short Hikes

Walk 1 - Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course map Walk 2 - Sign Describing the Gion-yama Hiking Course Two walks in Kamakura annotated - satellite view
Left: Sign describing the Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Center: Sign Describing the Gion-yama Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Right: Satellite view of Kamakura, Japan showing two hikes described in this post.


We were in Kamakura for 3 days, at the end of our Japan Trip. In between eating and visiting temples and shrines, we managed to get two very short hikes in. We are calling them hikes because you need some good shoes to be on these trails, and they were at times steep and muddy.

Viewed from above, Kamakura’s settlements and sharp forested hills look like ridges and creases of a brain. And while the greenness might seem sparse at first glance, it is a lush and vibrant landscape once you are inside of it as on these two trails.

Trail 1: The Daibutsu Hiking Trail is a scenic forest path in Kamakura that connects Jochi-ji Temple near Kita-Kamakura Station to Kotoku-in, home of the Great Buddha (Daibutsu). This 2.5-kilometer trail winds through wooded hills, offering a peaceful escape from the bustling city while passing by lesser-known temples and shrines. Along the way, hikers can visit Zeniarai Benten Shrine, Sasuke Inari Shrine, and Genjiyama Park, making it a great route for both nature lovers and history enthusiasts. The Kuzuharaoka Hiking Course is closely linked to the Daibutsu Trail and is sometimes considered part of it. This route also passes through Genjiyama Park and leads to Kuzuharaoka Shrine, which is known for its matchmaking rituals. The two trails overlap in certain sections, but the Kuzuharaoka Course has its own distinct path and highlights.

Views of the Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Walk 1 - steep part of trail Walk 1 - along the trail roots Walk 1 - along the trail - stairs
Walk 1 - sign along the Daibutu Hiking Course Walk 1 - Leaving the Kotoku-in and looking for the start of the trail Walk 1 - Fatsia japonica
Walk 1 - along the trail - crows Walk 1 - a stop at the money - washing temple - Zeniarai Benten Shrine



Trail 2: The Gion-yama Hiking Course goes from From Tōshō-ji Site to Yakumo Shrine. Just before descending to the Yakumo Shrine, there is a scenic point with a view looking west over Kamakura.

Views of the Gion-yama Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Walk 2 - along the trail Walk 2- along the trail - lush ferns Walk 2 - Yakumo Shrine in Kamakura
Walk 2 - View from Mt Gion Lookout Walk 2 - View from Mt Gion Lookout Walk 2 - along the trail under the cool trees
Walk 2 - start near Tōshō-ji Site Walk 2 - small shrine Walk 2 - Gion-yama Hiking Course xample of signage




Thursday, June 5, 2025

Kawai Kanjiro’s House in Kyoto



Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example  Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln
Views from Kawai Kanjiro's house in Kyoto. Pottery, rooms, chairs, and climbing kiln.


Overview


On our recent Japan trip, we spent a week in Kyoto. One morning, we stopped by the house museum of Kawai Kanjiro. We knew nothing about Kanjiro before we went and walked away enjoying his pottery, the house he designed, and the chairs we saw there (more on that later). Also, there is an awesome coffee shop nearby, Ichikawaya Coffee that has great coffee and fruit sandwiches. The museum plus coffee makes for a perfect break from the temples and shrines.

About Kanjiro


Kawai Kanjiro (1890–1966) was a master potter and ceramist who made a profound mark on Japan’s craft and design landscape. Not only was he pivotal to the mingei, or folk craft movement, which celebrated the beauty and functionality of everyday objects, but his creative genius spanned across wood carving, calligraphy, sculpture, and even writing. He imbued his work with poetic intuition and a deep respect for functional beauty, that continues to inspire.

In 1937, Kanjiro designed his Kyoto residence with a singular vision: to create a seamless fusion between home and workshop. Located in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto, the house was conceived as a vibrant living space where everyday life and creative practice intersected. It was built to accommodate not only his living quarters but also a studio and a climbing kiln. Every element of the space—from the fixtures to the furnishings (chairs?)—bears his distinctive mark, creating an intimate experience for visitors.

Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View
Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View 
Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View  Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View
Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View Kawai Kanjiro House in Kyoto - View 

Climbing Kiln


Notably, the house still hosts his original wood-fired kilns—with chambers capable of reaching temperatures between 850°C and 1,150°C—that were integral to his craft.

The climbing kiln, known in Japanese as the noborigama, dates back centuries in Japan and was already an established method for firing ceramics. What Kanjiro did was build his own climbing kiln in 1920 for his studio in Kyoto—a personal adaptation of a traditional technique rather than a new invention. His kiln allowed him to experiment with innovative glaze techniques and firing methods, which in turn had a significant impact on modern studio pottery and the mingei (folk art) movement. This adaptation was part of his broader commitment to blending traditional craftsmanship with new ideas, not an attempt to reinvent the kiln design itself.

The noborigama had long been used by potters to achieve multiple firing temperatures and effects by firing several chambers simultaneously on a slope. Kanjiro’s choice to use this kiln was rooted in his respect for traditional methods and his desire to harness their unique qualities in his work. His focus was more on the artistic innovations in glaze application and form rather than on the kiln's structural design.


Photos of the climbing kiln at Kawai Kanjiro's house.
Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln
Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln Kawai Kanjiro House Climbing Kiln  



Chairs and Pottery


The Kanjiro house is well-preserved, offering a glimpse into the daily life of a modern Japanese artist of the early 20th century. Walking through its rooms, you encounter ceramics, calligraphies, wood carvings, personal collections, and furnishings. Traditional elements, such as sliding shoji screens, wooden lattices, and an authentic hearth, combine easily with Western design.

As you would expect there are interesting pieces of pottery throughout the house as they might have been in Kanjiro's time. In the studio area, pottery is arranged more as if for an exhibition, but still pleasing.

We were also struck by the interesting variety of chairs we saw in Kanjiro's house. We were wondering if Kanjiro himself designed them, had them made, or simply purchased them. They all looked severe yet comfortable, improbable yet organic. Nice pottery, but did you see those chairs!?


Pottery we saw in Kawai Kanjiro's house.
Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example  Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example

Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example Kawai Kanjiro House - Pottery Example

Chairs we saw in Kawai Kanjiro's house.
Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair Kawai Kanjiro House Chair