West Coast Resorts, The Lodge at Whale Channel for the Non-Fisherman FAQ

Left: Silhouette of Fishermen in Whale Channel; Center: A Rod Set on the Downrigger Waiting for a Bite; Right: Motoring Out to Alexander Island
 

This post is in the form of a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ) intended for the non-fisherman going to West Coast Resorts, Whale Channel Lodge. This was my first experience salmon fishing and spending time in this part of British Columbia. Here are some obvious and not so obvious questions that I asked during my four day stay.  Fish on.

Where is this place?

The resort (at least this year) was in Barnard Harbour, an inlet of Princess Royal Island, which is included in the Kitimat-Stikine, BC, a regional district of Canada. The resort floats and is towed to different locations, seasonally. The resort is a converted barge that is positioned in a calm area and from what we heard runs completely from diesel. Water is desalinated for drinking water. Waste water is treated and released.

Left: Map Location of Barnard Harbour in British Columbia (Google Maps); Right: View of West Coast Resort Whale Channel in Barnard Harbour

How do I get there?

We left travelled from Vancouver airport to Bella Bella by turboprop jet and then on to Barnard Harbour by Helijet.

Left: Helijet on Floating Landing Pad in Barnard Harbour; Right: Layers of Princess Royal Island

Do I have to know anything about fishing?

Nope. A little knowledge helps, but the guides will fill you in on everything you need to know. Spoiler alert: you use this device called a down rigger to weigh down your fishing line to a particular depth (37 / 47 feet are popular) and you drive around trolling for salmon. When you get a bite, keep your pole up, tension on, and reel the fish in. (Okay, it’s way more than that, but that’s my brief description.) And, since you typically have two lines trailing the boat you keep them at different depths so they stay out of each other’s way. So practical.

Left: Bait Ball of Herring at the Surface South End of Campania Island; Right: Motoring Back to the Lodge After a Day of Fishing

Where do I fish?

Each boat has a map with the “typical” fishing spots. Your guide will suggest a good location. And, throughout the day, boats keep in radio contact to share tips on where the fishing is good. We spent the most time around Alexander Island (at the south end of Campania Island) and Eclipse Point.

Left: Alexander Island and Campania Island from the Helijet; Right: Map of Whale Channel Fishing Spots

What kind of fish will I catch?

On each boat there is a “Know Your Salmon Species” card (the flip side of the fishing spots info) that you’ll find yourself consulting a lot. The four species listed on the card are chinook (aka king or spring or Tyee*), coho (silver), chum (dog), and pink (humpback). We caught almost exclusively chinook and coho. We often could not tell which species we had until we hauled it up on board and opened its mouth to look at the gums. It’s all about the gums and tails.

* greater than 30 lbs.

Left: Chinook and Coho in the Fish Hold with Tags Identifying Who the Fish Belongs To; Right: Know Your Salmon Species Information 

What other wildlife will I see besides fish?

Here are a few of the animals we saw: steller sea lions, eagles, rhinoceros auklets, pacific white-sided dolphin, and humpback whales. Your mileage may vary. Keep your eyes open.

Left: Stellar Sea Lions Near Ashdown Island; Right: Eagles Feasting on a Bait Ball Near Alexander Island

Left: Whale Blow in the Morning Near Alexander Island; Right: Whale Surfacing Near Alexander Island

How many salmon can I catch?

It’s complicated. See the BC Sport Fishing Guide. Here’s what I think I understand of the rules: we could catch up to two chinook a day and four coho a day, but only four total fish day. We could take up to 8 total salmon out of the country. Four chinook and four coho. The math still confuses me. And, if you are there for several days, it’s a bit of a guessing game as to what to keep and what to throw back. You don’t want to spend your fish allowance too quickly because you could catch the big one the last day!

What are those things attached to the salmon?

Lice. Yup, salmon have lice (Lepeophtheirus salmonis). They are easy to pick off and they shouldn’t be considered detrimental to the quality of the fish, unless I suppose there were a lot of them (lice that is). Anyhow, there only seemed to be a few attached to the fish we caught. And, they seem to be quite often attached near the anal area of the fish. I took one off and flipped it on it’s back and it waved its legs in the air, desperately grasping to attach to something.

Left: Salmon Louse on a Salmon; Right: Salmon Louse Detached from Its Host

How do I kill the fish if I decide to keep it?

You bonk it on the head with a fish bat, put it in the hold, and gill it – at least that’s what I was taught. Throw water on top of it every so often until you get back to dock.

How do I take my fish home?

Oh, the folks at West Coast Resorts do all the hard work. If you can get your fish into the hold and your boat back to dock, you’re golden. The staff will take care of the rest: fillet, pack, and freeze it. When we arrived in Vancouver airport, boxes of fish were waiting for us. Fish on ice, that’s nice.

Left: Salmon Freshly Filleted Back at the Dock in Whale Channel; Right: Arriving at Vancouver Airport and Picking Up Our Boxes of Fish

What should I bring/wear?

Bring outdoor clothes that you’re comfortable in and could wear to dinner. You won’t trash your clothes, because likely you’ll choose to wear the rubberized overalls and a big heavy jacket provided by the resort. I will suggest to bring a pair of gloves (or buy them in the small gift shop at the resort) if you have “delicate” hands like I do. If you want to buy them before coming, you can look for “angler gloves”. Also, a warm cap that covers your ears is nice if your head gets cold easily.

Bugs?  We weren’t bothered much by bugs on the water. They bothered us a little at the lodge if we hung around the fish processing area. However, we did not wear any bug repellant the four days we were there and we were just fine. A few in our group reported some bites from black flies. “Black flies” seems to the catchall term for something that bites, looks like a fly, and we don’t know the name of. A dead one is pictured below.

What are all the colors I see on the coastline at low tide?

Glad you asked, it’s called intertidal zonation. In the photos here you can see several zones. The black zone toward the top is the spray or backshore zone. It is exposed to salt spray and is characterized by the black encrusting lichens (Verrucaria). Just below the spray zone is the intertidal zone, flooded once or twice a day, and characterized by a light brown zone that becomes darker closer to the water. In total, there are five zones: backshore, spray, intertidal, subtidal fringe, and subtidal.

Left: Intertidal Zonation Colors at Alexander Island;  Right: View of South End of Campania Island

Left: Another View of Intertidal Zonation; Right: Different Coloration in Barnard Harbour, Iron Oxide?

Will I step foot on land during my time there?

No. I asked and got a blank stare. I thought a nice little passeggiata might be nice between fishing jaunts. Nope. Land is generally inaccessible and potentially dangerous. Sigh.

Left: An Abandoned Boat in Barnard Harbour; Right: Eagle in Flight and Layers of Princess Royal Island

Why does the land look lush in some spots and stark and swampy in others?

From the air, the islands look like a tonsure, with a ring of trees around the perimeters. And, in stands of tree, there is often what look like dead tree or at least, dead tops. Why? We’ll it took a little digging to find out.

First, the West Coast Whale Channel resort, which is located between Bella Bella and Prince Rupert on the North Coast, is part of the Coastal Western Hemlock (CWH) Biogeoclimatic Zone. In the brochure on the gov.bc.ca site for CWH, this description of Wetlands caught my interest:

Not all of the Coastal Western Hemlock Zone is forested and not all of the forest is characterized by big trees. Wetlands, particularly bogs, are common in coastal lowland areas. They range from “closed” bog forests with scrubby and irregular tree cover to “open” bogs with few trees.

Okay, now we are getting somewhere. When flying in and out (via Helijet from/to Bella Bella), we noticed many coastal islands (large and small) with wetlands (fresh water) and that around these areas, there were little to no trees. What trees there were in the wetlands, were stunted. The CWH is the rainiest biogeoclimatic zone in British Columbia, but doesn’t the rain drain away?

In random search forays, I found something on Dewdney Island. The Dewdney and Glide Islands Ecological Reserve is a research area is in the Estevan Group, just due west by two islands from Whale Channel. The reserve contains “extensive bog and fen ecosystems representative of outer islands along the north mainland coast.” Ah, now we are getting somewhere. Furthermore, in the detailed description of the reserve, there is this information:

Dewdney Island is characterized by an outer rim of forest and interior area of wetland, the latter making up 60 to 75% of the total land area. Extensive occurrence of fen, bog and scrub vegetation, which occurs on both flat and gently sloping surfaces, is attributable to the subdued topography, moist climate, and lack of surficial materials conducive to development of forest soils. Forests are restricted to steep, well drained slopes and to a fringe near the shoreline where sands and gravels overlie the bedrock and nutrient supplies are better.

Left: Map of Dewdney Islands in the Estvean Group (Google Maps) Showing Fringe of Trees; Right: View of Princess Royal Island Looking West from the Helijet

Bingo, our tonsure of trees. I guess “subdued topography” in this context means that water accumulates and leads to more acidic conditions typical of wetlands.

Continuing for a moment with Dewdney Island, I found Brief notes on a field trip to Dewdney Island (ER#25), June 1987 where the authors and a malamute husky visited the island for four days, sampling 28 lakes on the island as part of coastal stickleback populations research. This June 7^th entry stuck out for me:

Our faces and hands are now bloody from the blackflies and we have to wear netting over our heads and as well wear gloves to protect our hands. Where the net tucks into the collar, it presses against the skin and the blackflies are able to bite through the net and obtain their bit of flesh. With this density of flies, it is no wonder that the stickleback were as abundant as they were.

So, I guess stepping foot on land is not such a good idea?

So what’s left? The dead tops. In the gov.bc.ca brochure mentioned above, there was also this description of the Spiked-top Cedars:

In the wet conditions of the outer coast [where the resort is], old western red cedar and yellow-cedar trees often develop dead or “spiked” tops. Cedars require lots of calcium, especially for the proper development of their tops. Scientists think the dead tops of these trees are caused by calcium deficiencies in the moist, acidic soils of these areas.

And, finally, wind is controlling factor of tree height on the coast explaining why so many of the islands have a very uniform tree height at shoreline, when viewed from the water.

Left: Time to Go; Right: Last Glimpse of the Lodge

High Note Trail Hike - Whistler B.C.

Panorama from Flute Summit
We were in Whistler, B.C. for zip lining (with Ziprek) on Saturday and planned a nice hike for Sunday: the High Note Trail Hike. You take the Whistler Village Gondola to the Peak Express Chair to get to Whistler Summit. You have arrived at the right spot when you see an big stone man, an Inuksuk marker, "Ilanaaq", the mascot logo of the 2010 Winter Olympics. From there follow the signs or the map that is readily available everywhere you look (a piece of it is shown here).

The High Note Trail is marked as #5 and comes in at about 9.4 km. This loop trail starts at the Peak Express chairlift and ends at the Roundhouse Lodge, lower than you started. From the Roundhouse Lodge, you can go back down or take the Peak 2 Peak Gondola across to Blackcomb.

In terms of plants and animals, we saw many alpine flowers and two big hoary marmots (Marmota caligata) munching away on them, lupine to be exact. Whistler Mountain gets its name from the piercing whistle the marmots make when they detect danger. The etymology of the generic name derives from Middle French word for mountain. “The etymology of the specific epithet is derived from caligatus (L), booted, a reference to the black or blackish brown feet (Brown 1956).” according to the Alaska Geographic site.

An Inuksuk marker, "Ilanaaq", the mascot logo of the 2010 Winter Olympics, located on Whistler Mountain (left) and View of Cheakamus Lake from the High Note Trail (right)

Partridgefoot - Luetkea pectinata (left) and Stream and Pink Monkey Flowers - Mimulus lewsii (right)

Western Pasque Flower - Anemone occidentalis (left) and Alpine Fireweed - Epilobium latifolium (right)

Hoary Marmot - Marmota caligata
 

Arrowleaf Groundsel - Senecio triangularis (left) and Orange Agoseris - Agoseris aurantiaca (right)

Symphony Lake (left) and Leatherleaf Saxifrage - Leptarrhena pyrolifolia (right)

Sickletop Lousewort - Peducularis racemosa (left) and Whistler High Note Trail Map (right)

Vancouver Weekend – In the Rain

 

Here’s a quick rundown of what we did and where we ate for a 3 night, rainy, weekend stay in Vancouver B.C. 

Lodging 

We stayed at Le Soleil and liked it. The hotel seemed reasonably priced with nice rooms, with friendly staff, and a good downtown location. 

Museums / Sites 

We spent part of two days at the Vancouver Art Gallery which is Vancouver’s main art museum. The first day we ran out of time and they made a note on our ticket so we could come back and continue the next day. (We are really slow museum visitors.) Make sure you see the Emily Carr and the Jack Shadbolt and the Group of 7 (Lawren Harris, A.Y. Jackson, Franklin Carmichael, Francis Johnston, Arthur Lismer, J.E.H. MacDonald and Frederick Varley) works that make up part of the permanent collection and are the core of B.C. art in the 20th century. 

We spent a few hours at the H.R. Macmillan Space Centre. First we did Virtual Voyages motion simulator which simulates a ride to Mars on a mission in the future. After that we did the GroundStation Canada Theatre - Live Science Stage show where we were taught a little bit about rockets and Newton's three laws of motion. 

Finally, we went to the Nightwatch planetarium show at noon. The Zeiss project system (named "Harold") was pretty amazing. It creates a 360 degree panorama of the sky. The operator of the projector (for this particular show) teaches you how to pick out features in the night sky. 

Because of the weather, we did not spend any time in Stanley Park, but we did drive out to see the totem poles and to get our panorama look back at the city. We took the AquaBus from the south foot of Hornby Street over to Granville Island (route map) and walked around the island (inside and out). On the island there are places to eat and shop. The public market is the must see on the island. 

Gardens 

Since it was raining almost the whole time were there in early November gardens were not the top of the must see list, but we did stop by the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Chinese Gardens and the adjoining public garden just a few steps from Robson. It was nice, but for $10 a head for the Yat-Sen garden it may not be your cup of tea. (Hot tea is served for the entry fee, but don’t get any grandiose ideas, it’s just tea in a big coffee device that you pour yourself into a paper cup.) There is a tour that we didn’t take so that probably would have been a good idea. If you want the budget experience, go to the free public garden and peek into the pay-for garden. 

Galleries 

If you are into gallery hopping, check out this Web site first to get a sense of galleries in B.C. We spent time in the South Granville neighborhood where there were a number of galleries (gallery row) we were interested in visiting. 

Dining 

All of these dining spots are within walking distance or a very short taxi ride from downtown Vancouver, except Fisherman’s Terrace. 

Cafe 

Caffé Artigiano – good coffee, breakfast foods (yogurt, fruit, scones, etc.). We chose to eat breakfast at Caffé Artigiano. The location we liked is the one right across from the Vancouver Art Gallery on Hornby Street. Next time, we’ll try Sciué – an Italian Bakery Caffé that came highly recommended. 

Lunch 

The Italian Kitchen – a stylish eatery that’s part of the larger Glowbal Restaurant Group. Il Gardino di Umberto – as close to old-school Tuscan cuisine that you’ll find in these parts. One word: stracciatella soup (wedding or egg-drop soup). 

Vij’s Rangoli – the uber-popular Indian dinner spot (Vij’s) has a younger sibling open for lunch, Rangoli, which is easier to get into. 

Fisherman’s Terrace – yes it’s in a shopping center, but this dim sum place was highly recommended. Beware, it’s a 20-30 minutes car ride south of Vancouver. 

Dinner 

Bishops – an eating experience that was our most enjoyable dinner in Vancouver. Simple, good preparation. It’s not as hip as many restaurants in Vancouver, but when owner John Bishop slipped us a couple of oysters (even though we didn’t order them) just for a taste, we were hooked. 

Le Crocodile – a polished French bistro atmosphere that executed flawlessly from start to finish. Loved the Oven-Roasted Beef Bone Marrow! It was a head turner when it arrived at the table. 

Chambar – a stylish Belgian eatery with the requisite choice of interesting beer.

Royal BC Museum, Victoria

Sunday, after a nice breakfast at Abigail’s Hotel, we walked over to the Royal BC Museum . The museum is located at 675 Belleville Street, almost at the harbor’s edge and between the Parliament Buildings and the Empress Hotel. We had heard that this was a definite-not-to-miss place and we’ll have to agree that it was pretty special. 

First, where did the “royal” come from in its name? In 1987 following the museum’s 100th birthday, Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, gave it the new name directly from Queen Elizabeth II. Don’t forget that Canada is in the Commonwealth of Nations that each has Elizabeth II as their monarch. 

We started in the Natural History Gallery and were immediately wowed by the exhibits. Note the woolly mammoth exhibit has real ice! I think after wandering around there we finally know our Thuja plicata (western red cedar) from our Tsuga heterophylla (western hemlock) from our Pseudotsuga menzieisii (Douglas fir). 

Next was the Ocean Station exhibit, which was pretty cool. Kids were running around playing with everything and it certainly satisfies them, but there’s a lot for adults too. (I felt a little bad for elbowing out a little kid to look through the microscope, but it had to be done since she was hogging it.) The exhibit was cleverly designed to feel like you were in an underwater exploration vessel. 

Next on the list was the First Peoples Gallery which again, was well done. Usually Northwest Native American exhibits always leave me cold (for example, the Seattle Art Museum’s never has worked for us) but here it was very interesting. Maybe because here it’s done through an anthropological lenses and it’s not in an art museum. I found I was reading about different aspects of First Peoples’ life and was truly interested and thought wow, some of this stuff is beautiful, without be told explicitly: this is art.

After an interesting IMAX movie break and lunch at the nice café in the museum, we tackled the Modern History Gallery. Again, it was interesting for sure and well executed, but it felt a little like a strange cross between Disney and Westworld (Remember that movie? Here’s the trailer to jog your memory). I kept expecting Yul Brynner to start chasing us through the streets of the small faux town.