Saturday, July 4, 2015

Þakgil (Thakgil), Ausurafrettur Range (Yellow Route) Hike

Þakgil (Thakgil) Brochure
Þakgil (Thakgil) BrochureÞakgil (Thakgil) Brochure

Þakgil (Thakgil) Hiking Routes
Þakgil (Thakgil) Hiking RoutesÞakgil (Thakgil) Hiking Routes

Hike Notes


Length: 12.3 miles, loop
Duration: About 7.5 hours, 12:20pm - 7:45 pm with a break for lunch overlooking Huldujökull Glacier.
Elevation: Starting and ending at Þakgil (Thakgil) Campsite, total elevation gain about 4,700 feet. Location: Iceland, South Coast Overview

Overview


When we pulled into Þakgil on a pleasant Friday morning, we were expecting an easy hike. When we left, we had unexpectedly completed a hike that was more strenuous than the previous day’s Fimmvörðuháls Pass, Þórsmörk to Skógarfoss Hike, and in some ways more frightening.

There are three suggested hiking routes at Thakgil, designated by color. (The colors are different depending on what sign or map you happen to be looking at.) On the information board at the campsite, the routes are yellow (Austurafréttur), red (Mælifell range), and purple (Remundargil ravine). We had our sights set on the yellow route because it takes you by Mýrdalsjökull Glacier. (The ending jökull means glacier, so adding glacier to the end of it and other glaciers seems redundant.)

We checked in at the information “shack” (marked with a blue “i”). A man (manning the shack?) warned us about going on the yellow route. He said we could lose sight of the markers in the snow. It had been a late spring/summer and the trails were not yet ready to use – at least that’s what I remember.  He suggested walking part of the yellow route, doubling back and visiting part of the red route, and then returning back to the camp by backtracking on the yellow route.

So we started on the yellow route, which was basically a steep jeep road for vehicles to get onto the glacier – at least at the beginning. After a while, we climbed higher and donned more layers of clothing. We found ourselves in snow and walking along the edge of the gaping hole, across which was the Huldujökull Glacier (oops, did it again). We took lunch on a rocky area free of snow. While we ate, we heard and saw pieces of the glacier edge dropping into the pit. Pretty awesome.

After lunch, we decided to continue around the yellow route clockwise, ignoring the advice not to do this. We did lose our way a bit but after some maps checks and thinking about the topography of the land, we got back on track and soon were soon out of the snow and seeing markers regularly.

The markers on the Þakgil trails are short, colored poles. In many cases (at least at many places on the yellow route) there was no obvious footpath from marker to marker. We just took the easiest and least destructive path we could find. It’s as if someone had come up, laid out the trail with markers and then nobody hiked it.

At one point on the yellow route, we hit a part of the trail on a ridge that was dangerous. There was a steep drop off on one side, and a  steep scree slope on the other where the trail was. We could see a yellow marker in the distance, but as we started toward it we started to slide. And down we came. We got torn up a bit on the sharp rocks. Luckily, just after that tough part, there were big springy moss clumps to wipe the blood off our hands. The incident generated in us a healthy respect for Icelandic trails and the difference between them and our relatively comfortable and easy Northwest trails. Well, at least the ones we go on.

There was one further surprise on the yellow route. As we got toward the end, it dropped quickly down a steep slope. We managed to get to down it thanks to the fact that it was completely cushioned with moss. Overall, we were amazed that this was considered a trail at all. Call us pampered hikers.

On the upside, the views on this hike were spectacular. We had a mix of skies and weather leading to great photos and vivid memories. The scenery went from brilliant whites of glacial snow, to jet black sands, to the fluorescent greens of moss.  In the distance, to the east, Mýrdalssandur is always visible. It is an outwash plain or sandur from Mýrdalsjökull on the south coast of Iceland.

Start of the Hike, Looking Back Toward The Ring Road and HjörleifshofðiStart of the Hike, Looking Back Toward The Ring Road and HjörleifshofðiStart of the Hike, Looking Back Toward The Ring Road and Hjörleifshofði

Left: Meadow with Cardamine pratensis – Cuckoo Flower; Center and Right: Walking Up to the Glacier. More info on plants at Selected Plants from Our Iceland Trip.


Huldujökull (Glacier)
Huldujökull (Glacier)Huldujökull (Glacier)

Views West Toward Kistufell and Hafursey
Views West Toward Kistufell and HafurseyViews West Toward Kistufell and Hafursey

Left: View West Toward Kistufell and Hafursey; Right: View of KötlujökullView West Toward Kistufell and HafurseyView of Kötlujökull

Left: Start of Þakgil (Thakgil) “Canyon” Looking Toward Glacier; Right: View of Þakgil (Thakgil) from the Trail
 Start of Þakgil (Thakgil) “Canyon” Looking Toward GlacierView of Þakgil (Thakgil) from the Trail

Left: View on Part of Hike Before Reaching the Glacier; Center: After the Glacier - View Across the “Canyon” to the Jeep Trail We Took Up to the Glacier; Right: A Tricky Part on the Trail.
View on Part of Hike Before Reaching the Glacierthe Glacier - View Across the “Canyon” to the Jeep Trail We Took Up to the GlacierA Tricky Part on the Trail

Toward the End of the Hike. Left: Last Descent; Right: A Bird Watches Us
Toward the End of the Hike. Last DescentToward the End of the Hike. A Bird Watches.

Friday, July 3, 2015

Fimmvörðuháls Pass, Þórsmörk to Skógarfoss Hike


View over the Krossa River and BásarEnd of the trail at Skogafoss
Left: View over the Krossa River and Básar. Right: End of the trail at Skogafoss.

Overview


Length: 15.7 miles one way
Duration: About 9.5 hours, 1:15pm - 10:45 pm with a break for dinner at Baldvinsskáli Hut
Elevation: Starting 800 feet (Básar), max at 3,400 feet (near the Magni and Móði craters), ending 89 feet (Skógafoss)
Location: Iceland, South Coast

Hike Notes


The route is known as "Fimmvörðuháls" or “5 Cairns Pass”. On a good day, it’s a strenuous enough hike. With changing weather, it could be significantly harder because you can run into low visibility weather and get lost easily. Case in point: after leaving the Baldvinsskáli Hut (after dinner) we lost our way for a bit and had to retrace our steps.

Here’s how we did this hike:
  • Parked our car at the Skogar Campsite.
  • Took Route 21a, departing Skogar at 8:15 am arriving at Seljalandsfoss at 8:45 am. Explored Seljalandsfoss for and hour or so, and grabbed a coffee and sandwich at the food truck.
  • Took Route 9, departing Seljalandfoss at 10:45 am and arriving at Thorsmork/Basar at 1:10 pm.
  • Hiked back to the car all in one go with a stop at the Baldvinsskáli Hut, approximately at the halfway point.
Details
  • The bus from Seljalandfossto Básar has a few stops. At first, we thought we took the wrong bus when it stopped at Húsadalur and almost tried to hike from there to Básar. The bus driver assured us he was going to Básar and he would be leaving in 20 minutes. (It did.)
  • Arrive a few minutes before the departure time of any bus. The drivers are punctual about leaving. We almost missed the bus at Seljalandsfoss because we were dilly dallying at the food truck.
  • Ask the bus driver where the bus is going and explain what you are trying to do. In one case, the buses changed on us (at Húsadalur) and if we went blindly back to the bus we came on, we’d be going in the wrong direction.
  • We bought our tickets online and printed out the tickets and showed them to the driver. The buses were hardly filled and we could have purchased tickets on-board (with a credit card). Also, we might have saved some money because the online ticket sites are built for end to end trips. So, we basically bought the Reykjavik to to Básar total trip even though we started in Seljalandsfoss. Perhaps paying on the bus you’d get charged less?
  • We looked at the various packages on Iceland On Your Own site and none of them seemed helpful for what we were trying to do. Though in the future, I might built a trip around the routes and packages there.
  • We took this convoluted routing (parking car, bus, walking) because we did not want to camp. The downside of this route is that you start hiking later in the day (at 1:30 pm). The plus side is we saw no one going in this direction (Básar to Seljalandsfoss). We saw a few groups coming the other way.

Conditions

It was gray when we started and gray when we ended. Oh well. (We did have great weather on other days!) It sprinkled on us a few times, but nothing serious. We were walking on more snow than we expected. We started in short sleeves, got bundled up in layers at the top, and ended in a light pullover.

We finished the hike at approximately, 10:45 pm. The sight of our rental car (a very functional VW Golf) was very welcome. None of the restaurants at Seljalandsfoss were open so we headed home to our AirBnB place in Vik and ate our Icelandic TV dinners, which we wisely purchased the day before.


Trailhead Map at BásarMagni and Móði Information
Left: Trailhead Map at Básar; Right: Magni and Móði Information.


Reykjavik Excursions Bus, stop near the Gígjökull glacier.
Left: Example of flora - Dactylorhiza maculata – Heath Spotted Orchid, particular in the beginning of the hike. For more about Iceland flora see Selected Plant from Our Iceland Trip. Right: Reykjavik Excursions Bus, stop near the Gígjökull glacier.

Garmin Final ReadingsGarmin Final Readings
Garmin final readings.

Follow the Red Backpack


We started at 1:15 pm and ended at 10:45 pm. These time-stamped shots give a sense of the middle part of the hike.

Follow the Red BackpackFollow the Red BackpackFollow the Red Backpack
Left: 3:18 pm; Center: 3:29 pm; Right: 3:34 pm.

Follow the Red BackpackFollow the Red BackpackFollow the Red Backpack
Left: 4:15 pm; Center: 5:30 pm; Right: 7:10 pm (just after dinner stop).

Follow the Red BackpackFollow the Red Backpack
Left: 7:20 pm; Right: 8:08 pm.

Views from the Trail



Illhryggur – Godaland, Right photo: 63.659367, -19.425547.

Morinsheiði - View North from the TrailMorinsheiði - View North from the Trail
Morinsheiði - View North from the Trail.

In the Snow Near the PassIn the Snow Near the Pass
In the Snow Near the Pass. Right photo: 63.631097, -19.438711.

Sheep Relax on the Skogar Side of the PassView from the trail south toward the ocean
Left: Sheep Relax on the Skogar Side of the Pass 63.547903, -19.496914; Right: View from the trail south toward the ocean.

View back toward Básar from the trail.
View back toward Básar from the trail.

Waterfalls on the Skógá River


For more waterfalls, see World of Waterfalls. These pictures represent just a few we saw on the hike. When available, latitude and longitude are given.


Waterfalls on the Skógá RiverWaterfalls on the Skógá River
Photo Right: 63.581778, -19.443036.

Waterfalls on the Skógá RiverWaterfalls on the Skógá River
Left Photo: 63.575278, -19.451011.

Waterfalls on the Skógá RiverWaterfalls on the Skógá River

Waterfalls on the Skógá RiverWaterfalls on the Skógá River


Waterfalls on the Skógá RiverWaterfalls on the Skógá River
Left Photo: Location: 63°32'09.6"N 19°30'02.8"W

Waterfalls on the Skógá RiverWaterfalls on the Skógá River
Right Photo: At Skogafoss, 63.53180277777778, -19.510619444444444.

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

You Know It When You Hear It

"Caw, Caw, Caw!"
"Shit." I rub my eyes and throw back the covers.

6:00 am. A Seattle Spring morning and the crows wake me up again. My partner, oblivious to the caw-cophony continues sleeping. The crows might even figure into a pleasant dream for him. Not for me. I get out of bed wondering how will I cope today in a world of noise?

What noise?


I'm talking about noise in the pejorative sense: unwanted, disruptive, ugly, loud for loud's sake, and sometimes against the law. Noise the spoiler of my concentration. Noise not produced by me. Noise that irritates.

Garret Keizer, in The Unwanted Sound of Everything We Want, captures the subjective nature of noise this way: "we know it when we hear it."

Crows are my unwanted noise. So are booming car stereos, deafening after-market mufflers, thumping bass through a floor, babbling televisions in airports, drumming of fingers, popping of gum, slamming of doors, and wind chimes. If none of those sounds annoy you, my earplugs are off to you.
I wrestle with my response to unwanted noise because noise precipitates awkward behavior. I'm worried about becoming a noise crank. Several years ago, I began to, at first serendipitously, and then more directed, read about noise. I found solace in the anecdotes of how historical personalities confronted unwanted noise.

Two Signposts


Street music rankled the English mathematician and "father of the computer" Charles Babbage (1797 - 1871). His 1864 autobiography Passages from the Life of a Philosopher contains a chapter, Street Nuisances, which lays out his contempt of street musicians, in particular Italian organ grinders. Babbage made his unwanted noise issue into one of class and education. Intellectual workers - like himself - were harassed by noise while those with "frivolous pursuits or with any other pursuits requiring but little attention from the reasoning or the reflective powers" welcomed noise.

Babbage lashed out at the noisemakers. He yelled at them, urged the police to pursue them, and prosecuted them in court. They returned the favor. Babbage wrote, "[T]he crowd of young children, urged on by their parents, and backed at a judicious distance by a set of vagabonds, forms quite a noisy mob, following me as I pass along, and shouting out rather uncomplimentary epithets. When I turn around and survey my illustrious tail, it stops; if I move toward it, it recedes; the elder branches are then quiet - sometimes they even retire, wishing perhaps to avoid my future recognition. The instance I turn, the shouting and the abuse are resumed, and the mob again follow at a respectful distance."

It is reported that on his deathbed, Babbage endured an organ grinder outside his window.
Babbage's life spanned the Georgian and Victorian periods in London, at the time one of the largest and noisiest cities in the world. It is true that London street musicians, typically immigrants, did play until you paid them to leave. Their noise disturbed Babbage, but was his method for dealing with it something I see myself adopting for my unwanted noises?

A half of century later in 1906 America, tug boat whistles on the Hudson River kept Julia Barnett Rice (1860 - 1929), a New York physician and philanthropist, awake at night. On any given night there could be a thousand or more whistles penetrating her Riverside Drive bedroom of Villa Julia. Sick of sleepless nights, Rice fought back. She took noise measurements, collected statements from people impacted, and waged a campaign for the suppression of unnecessary noise all the way to Washington D.C., and she won.

Rice's New York City took over the mantle of the largest and noisiest city in the world from Babbage's London. The whistles Rice silenced were from tugs carrying material and debris from the expanding city. Rice took a pro-business approach, knowing that much noise was unavoidable, but that excess noise could be framed as inefficient as well as "hurtful to humanity".

Beyond tugboat whistles, Rice shined a line on the issue of noise outside of hospitals and the general noise levels of the city. She educated by not just telling people about noise, but showing them. She recorded and played the noise back to audiences. A 1908 New York Times article, Canned Din by Phonograph, gives a taste of one of her 'concert events', a "record that will give outsiders some idea of New York's din furnished a duet between an elevated train at Fifty-ninth Street and Columbus Avenue and a flat-wheel surface car."

I calculate that Rice made a difference in dealing with her unwanted noise as well as benefiting society. Babbage comes off as cranky. A man targeted because of his response to noise. Is my response to noise more Rice or Babbage?


Chamber of Quiet



Crow 1: "Look who's here."
Crow 2: "The guy who flaps his arms at us."
Crow 1: "What's he doing now? What's he holding up?"
Crow 2: "I hear the sound of an eagle, or is it a falcon? But I don't see one."
Crow 1: "What a strange and noisy creature he is."
Crow 2: "Let's get his attention."
Together: "Caw, caw, caw!"

My partner watches and shakes his head. A bit of a Babbage moment except instead of organ grinders it’s crows. My attempt to scare the crows away with the "Crow Be Gone" soundtrack - a product reputed to repel crows by repeating the sounds of their predators - doesn't work. I put the soundtrack on my phone - portable crow-repellency I thought. I feel silly trying to scare crows away by making them think they are under attack, all because I feel under attack by the noise they make.

11:00 pm. Summer. The noise of a Saturday night party penetrates into our basement bedroom, which is half submerged underground, protected by thick walls and double-paned windows. It's usually relief from outside noise but not tonight.

I pass the time before sleep wondering what it would be like to create a quiet place to sleep without white noise generators or silicone earplugs. I could design my own anechoic ('echo-free') chamber, like the one at Orfield Labs in South Minneapolis. The 12 by 12 chamber is the quietest place on earth according to Guinness World Records. The chamber's walls sprout brown fiberglass wedges, which alternate horizontally and vertically in orientation. The floor is cable-mesh suspended over more of the same brown wedges. The fractal-like surfaces look nightmarish but provide ample surface area to absorb noise.

The chamber was built for product testing and registers negative decibels, -9.4 dBA. Zero decibels is the point at which you begin to hear. A quiet bedroom or library is about 30 decibels. At negative decibels your body becomes the sound.

The longest that anyone has remained in the chamber is reported to be 45 minutes. The challenge is one of orientation; we use sound to orient ourselves and that room robs soaks it all up.
An idea begins to take form in my mind: perhaps you can never escape noise.

Cranky Behavior


Noise impacts me beyond an occasional crow gathering or a joyrider with a new fat-boy muffler. When I plan a trip and look for hotel rooms, fear-of-noise is my travel agent. I construct mental blueprints of hotels, calculate distances to elevators, stairwells, and ice machines. Can I get a top floor so no one is above me? Good. Do TVs in adjacent rooms share a common wall with a bed? Bad. Do the pictures of the room look like they are insulating from sound? Good.

My partner puts up with my ruminations which turn to machinations once we arrive at a hotel and I get the true lay of the land. The diagram on the back of your hotel room door is there to help you find a fire exit. I study it for possible room swapping opportunities and get angry when it's a hand drawn approximation of the true layout. If you were staying in the hotel, you might hear me babbling as I wander the halls: "Room 204 must be a quiet room. Look at it, isolated at the end of the hallway. And, there's no room above it."

My in-laws are happy we come to visit. They said nothing when during our first visits I incapacitated their wind chimes with white tube socks. When visiting us, they accept my Napoleonic declarations: no door slamming or dryer usage after 10 pm.

At work, I sit cheek to jowl with my colleagues, and noises grate on my nerves. I can't be a noise tyrant as at home, so I escape. I book conference rooms for meetings with myself.

Record Breaking Noise


"Go Hawks!" A touchdown for the Seattle Seahawks.

We are at a Super Bowl 49 party, in a basement rec room. A big screen TV dominates one end of the room. Twenty-five friends gather to cheer on Seattle. The windows are steamed up. Seattle green and blue are everywhere: in clothes, face paint, wigs, pom-poms, party streamers and donuts. Some friends sit on a large couch sprawled in front of the TV, others are too nervous to sit. Three friends are in the "prayer corner" clutching each other.

I measure the noise in the room at an average of 100-110 decibels. My decibel meter offers that it's the same as listening to power tools. For the duration of the game, we are in a wood shop.

A prayer-corner friend controls the volume of the TV. She cranks it up when an important play is coming up or we need to focus or the prayers aren't working. We hit 125 decibels – jackhammer – we moved from wood shop to construction crew. The volume of the sound keeps everyone in a heightened sense. My ears ring for hours after the game has finished.

I imagine channeling Julia Barnet Rice and educating my friends (during a commercial break naturally). "Did you know that quite possibly some of the fine hairs of your inner ears - making hearing possible - have just died, never to grow back?" Or "Sounds above 85 decibels for extended periods of time can permanently damage your ears." But I don't and instead reach for a blue and green donut.

Noise Wake Up Call


7:00 am. Winter. The world is still asleep; I'm half asleep. I sit at my desk in socks, underwear, and an oversized sweatshirt staring at the gray outside. The radiator hisses and the house creaks as water flows through pipes. I imagine our house - with it creaks and groans - as a ship afloat on a sea of noise.

The sound of a distant plane edges into my consciousness for a few seconds and then fades. This morning, there are no crows. No fire engines or ambulances. No blaring stereos. No wind chimes. Just comforting sounds and the absence of unwanted sounds.

Yet, it's a temporary respite. The world will wake up and the sound level will increase. Sounds will become my unwanted noise. The best case scenario is that I won't notice it because I'll be busy and the total sound level will rise to drown out what bothers me. The worst case scenario is that I'll get irritated, then cope, and maybe even create my own noise.

I think of how Julia Barnett Rice and Charles Babbage responded to noise, proactively and reactively, respectively. I'm somewhere in the middle. My mind wanders to Seneca (c. 4 BC – AD 65), a Roman Stoic. He lived above a spa and describes the noises that irritated him in the essay On Noise including the hair-plucker's voice, "continually giving it vent and never holding his tongue except when he is plucking the armpits and making his victim yell instead." He gives this advice on dealing with noise: suck it up and calm the turmoil inside. I think of the Stoic's response to the old saw "shit happens," which is, "This shit is good for me." Maybe some noise is.

7:05 am. I yawn and stretch. Suddenly, "Varoom!" Out of nowhere a motorcycle roars up the street. It sets of a car alarm. My first test of the day.