Tuesday, January 3, 2017

The Cagliari Palm Tree Graffiti Mystery

Left: A gardener in Parco Bonaria explains how the red palm beetle works, drilling into the heart of the palm. Center: Lots of treatment marks on this palm. Right: The beetle behind the palm deaths: Rhynchophorus ferrugineus. 
A gardener in Parco Bonaria explains how the red palm beetle works, drilling into the heart of the palm.Lots of treatment marks on this palm.The beetle behind the palm deaths:Rhynchophorus ferrugineus.

While in Cagliari, kept seeing circular paint marks on palm tree trunks and we would mutter to ourselves something like: “those damn graffitists, marking up a tree, really!?”. The mystery didn’t reveal itself until our 6th day when we stopped to talk to a gardener in the Parco di Bonaria.

What first caught our attention were orange buckets hanging in trees. It was just too tempting and when we saw a gardener sitting there, we decided it was time for an explanation and a language lesson. (We find that people – be it a docent in a museum or a gardener in a park – just love to talk and it’s a great way to practice Italian.) Well, this gardener helped crack the mystery so much so that our visit to the nearby santuario was a bit of letdown. (In this instances, facts trump faith.)

The marks on the trees, concentric circles of yellow, red, blue, and green are a way to keep track of which trees have been treated for the red palm weevil, Rhynchophorus ferrugineus. Each circle represents an intervention, or use of insecticide. The infestation of this beetle from Asian has been devastating to palm trees around the Mediterranean. It mostly targets the Phoenix canariensis pictured here, although it’s not just limited to this host. I remember first becoming aware of the seriousness of the infestation when we were in Seville, Spain two years ago (see A tour of Andalusia: Córdoba, Seville and Granada) and we saw many palm stumps, trees with no tops. The beetle kills the tree because the larvae burrow into the heart of the palm weakening and eventually killing the host by eating its heart out.

Cagliari seems to have a marking system with lots of variation. We saw big and small circles. Even the gardener lamented the fact that everyone does it differently. You would think they would have adopted a system a little more aesthetically pleasing to look at like smaller, uniform circles or metal tags that can be punched. Why didn't they ask us first?

Oh, the bucket hanging from the tree, that was filled with pheromones and soapy water. The beetles are attracted to the sex-in-the-bucket and get covered with soapy water, which cuts off how they breathe, and they die.

Treated and dead palms (note stumps) in the Gardini Publici in front of the Galleria Comunale d'Arte Moderna, Cagliari.
Treated and dead palms (note stumps) in the Gardini Publici in front of the Galleria Comunale d'Arte Moderna.Treated and dead palms (note stumps) in the Gardini Publici in front of the Galleria Comunale d'Arte Moderna.

Left: Parco Bonaria marked palm. Center: An orange bucket filled with pheromones. Right: A palm in Parco Bonaria already sick, note yellowing fronds.
Parco Bonaria marked palm.An orange bucket filled with pheromones.A palm in Parco Bonaria already sick, note yellowing fronds.




Monday, January 2, 2017

Binomen Art – Posidonia oceanica

Left: Posidonia oceanica (binomial nomenclature) spelled out with "fruits" (egagropoli) and old leaves. Right: Fuzzy, fibrous fruits of P. oceanica.
Posidonia oceanica spelled out with fruits (egagropoli) and old leaves. Fuzzy, fibrous fruits of P. oceanica.

We just couldn’t let this opportunity for a Binomen Art piece pass when recently walking along a beach in Sardinia. We were on the Spiaggia di Notteri, south of Villasimius where we saw lots of  brown fibrous balls. These lightweight, buoyant balls ranged in size from an inch to a couple of inches in diameter. We saw the balls on the beach near Pula as well.

We learned that the balls, nicknamed “Neptune Balls”, are from the seagrass Posidonia oceanica. The seaweed is commonly called Neptune Grass or Mediterranean tapeweed. The latter refers to the tape-like (think cassette tape) foliage. The fuzzy balls we saw on the beach are bits of this aquatic plant formed into balls through the action of waves (hence quotes around the word fruit above). In Italian, common names include “olive of the sea” (oliva del mare), “sea balls” (palle di mare), “sea meatballs” (polpette di mare). The scientific term used to refer to these spheres from the sea is egagropilo/egagropili.

The genus name Posidonia is after Poseidon, the Greek god of the seas. The species name oceanica appears to refer to the wide distribution of this plant that is now only found in the Mediterranean Sea. P. oceanica can form large underwater meadows and is being used as a bioindicator. Furthermore, there is interesting work being done to turn these beach-tribbles into useful insulation.

What we are seeing on the beach today is the result of seagrass flowering between August and November. I would guess in summer much of P. oceanica is cleared from the beach to make way for the summer invasion. According to this article, despite the number of fruits found on the beach, new seagrass “…originating from seedlings are rarely found and P. oceanica primarily propagates vegetatively by elongating the rhizomes; a whole meadow may be one single clone resulting from one ancient seedling.”

Left: Posidonia spelled with brown "sea olives". Right: P. oceanica on Spiaggia di Notteri.
Posidonia spelled with brown "sea olives".P. oceanica on Spiaggia di Notteri.

Left: Spiaggia di Notteri (south of Villasimius, Sardinia) with P. oceanica, washed up on shore. Right: Assembling the binomen art piece on the beach.
Spiaggia di Notteri (south of Villasimius) with P. oceanica, washed up on shore.Assembling the binomen art piece on the beach.

Left: A Neptune ball in hand is worth two in the bush? Right: Debris from Mediterranean seagrass. The debris can help reduce the erosion of the beach.
A Neptune ball in hand is worth two in the bush? Debris from Mediterranean seagrass.

Left: Posidonia oceanica and Capo Carbonara in the background. Right: Walkway over Stagno di Notteri.
Posidonia oceanica and Capo Carbonara in the background.Walkway over Stagno di Notteri.

Sunday, January 1, 2017

Hike: Il sentiero Miniere nel blu

Left: Path for the hike Il sentiero miniere nel blu. Right: View from the trail looking north along the Sardinia coast.
Path for the hike Il sentiero miniere nel blu.View from the trail looking north along the Sardinia coast.

Length: ~10 km (6.2 miles)
Duration: ~5 hours walking time, includes exploring and eating lunch at the Canal Grande di Nebida
Elevation: total gain 935 m (3,070 ft), starting/ending 42 m (140 ft), max elevation 327 m (1,070 ft)
Location: Italy, Sardinia, Carbonia-Iglesias, Porto Flavia

For our first hike of the year, we found ourselves on the west coast of Sardinia hiking part of Il sentiero miniere nel blu. First, let’s tackle the trail name. This area is known for its mines (miniere in Italian) and in fact the trail goes past and over former mining sites. The word miniera (plural miniere), also means a treasure trove or wealth, which I’m guessing is used as a play on words here in that the trail takes hikers through a wealth of beautiful scenery. Sentiero means trail. And blu means blue, referring to the ocean and sky.

We parked just outside of Masua, in the parking for Porto Flavio. (We didn’t actually visit the Porto Flavio mine.) We did a loop hike, counter-clockwise. We took the inland trail north to the Canal Grande di Nebida and then took the coast trail (Il sentiero miniere nel blu) back south to the car. Specifically, from Porto Flavio parking we followed something called Bega sa canna until we hit trail 309 and then took trail 307 back south. Trail 307 is il sentiero miniere nel blu. We saved the coast trail for later in the afternoon to take advantage of the better light from the side, instead of overhead.

We got a late start having stayed up late for New Year’s Eve, and then there was an hour and a half drive from Cagliari to the trailhead. Therefore, we didn’t start hiking until noon. We didn't have much daylight so didn’t continue on to Cala Domestica, a few kilometers north of Canal Grande, which would have been an easy destination.

Flora and fungi

The ecosystem of the hike is maquis shrubland or in Italian: macchia mediterranea. We saw Arbutus unedo [Ericaceae], Cistus spp. [Cistaceae], Euphorbia dendroides [Euphorbiaceae], Juniperus spp., Pistacia lentiscus [Anacardiaceae], and Rosmarinus officinalis [Lamiaceae] to name just a few. Other plants that caught our eye:
  • Arisarum vulgare [Araceae] – These were quite prolific along trail 307, and in bloom.
  • Arum pictum [Araceae] – Unfortunately, we saw just leaves.
  • Geastrum fimbriatum [Geastraceae] – A peculiar star-shaped fungus we spotted.
  • Asphodelus spp. [Liliaceae] – At least that's what all these leaves look at. Now blooms to verify.

Some plant resources that were useful to us when researching plants we saw on this hike:


Canal Grande

As noted above, we took the inner route to arrive at Canal Grande and as we walked we were wondering if we’d get to see anything special. But when we arrived at the Canal Grande beach we were not disappointed, not to mention the walk back along the coast.

To clarify – because we wondered – canale means “valley” in the Campidanese Sardinian language. You walk down a long valley to approach the water. When you reach the water, there is water access, but not a beach. The most striking aspect of the area are the rock layers, which are arranged almost vertically. Then, there is the natural sea cave called La Grotta del Canal Grande. Inside and under the right light, you will see the intense blue of the water and the purple of algae and sea urchins clinging to rocks, tantalizingly out of reach. Nearby the opening of the sea cave, we found a pile of sea urchin shells, ones that were in reach and now in someone’s belly, or at least their gonads were.

According to the Sardegna Natura site, sphalerite was once mined in this area.

Left: Arisarum vulgare. Center: Arum pictum. Right: Rosmarinus officinalis.
Arisarum vulgare. Arum pictum.Rosmarinus officinalis.

Left: Cistus spp. Right: Pistacia lentiscus.
Cistus spp.Pistacia lentiscus.

Left: Signs for trails 307 and 309. Right: Information sign at Canal Grande di Nebida.
Signs for trails 307 and 309.Information sign at Canal Grande di Nebida.

Left: Sea cave at Canal Grande with blue and purple colors. Right: Sea urchin shells.
Sea cave at Canal Grande with blue and purple colors. Sea urchin shells.

"Beach" at Canal Grande di Nebida.
"Beach" at Canal Grande di Nebida.

Views along the Sentiero miniere nel blu. Right: Note numerous lily (asphodelus) plants, if that is what they are indeed.
Views along the Sentiero miniere nel blu.Views along the Sentiero miniere nel blu.

Start of hike near Porto Flavio.
Start of hike near Porto Flavio.Start of hike near Porto Flavio.

Left: Sign explaining trail 309. Right: Crab at Canal Grande.
Sign explaining trail 309. Crab at Canal Grande.

Photos from our better camera.

The photos above were all taken with cell phones (except the crab photo). The following photos were taken with a Canon 7D and you can see the difference.

Left: Bee on Rosmarinus officinalis. Right: Arbutus unedo fruit.
Bee on Rosmarinus officinalis.Arbutus unedo fruit.

Left: Arisarum vulgare. Right: Geastrum fimbriatum.
Arisarum vulgare.Geastrum fimbriatum.

Left: View north along the Sardinia west coast near Nebida. Right: View down on the sea cave at Canal Grande.
View along the Sardinia west coast near Nebida.View down on the sea cave at Canal Grande.

Left: View south along the Sardinia west coast toward Nebida. Right: View of Pan di Zucchero Masua.
View south along the Sardinia west coast toward Nebida.View of Pan di Zucchero Masua.

Left: Pancratium illyricum leaves. Right: View of maquis shrubland.
Pancratium illyricum leaves.View of maquis shrubland.

Left: Sea cave at Canal Grande. Right: Shallow water at Canal Grande.
Sea cave at Canal Grande. Shallow water at Canal Grande.

Saturday, December 31, 2016

Broca’s Earlobe

I wish I knew more about my uncle Joey. The memory bits I have of him are organized willy-nilly in my mind like a kitchen junk drawer that has all sorts of little interesting things, but is never quite as organized as you want it to be. The bits are like shards of picture that I'm trying to assemble to catch a glimpse of him. Selfishly, as family memories go, perhaps I'm trying to assemble the shards to get a glimpse of myself. At any rate, among the bits is the memory of my uncle's obsession with earlobes.

My uncle Joey's was obsessed with touching earlobes, at least that's how I remember it. He would call you over, and he would talk to you in a low, authoritative voice, and fondle your ear. He died at 50. I just turned 50 and it recently occurred to me that his obsession with earlobes was a bit odd.

I suppose I let him do it for many reasons. He was a father figure and you didn't argue, and I was in need of that kind of attention. He was one of my 4 uncles that I wanted to know better. The attention and ear touching was the only 1-1 time we had together.

~Two Worlds~

As a kid, we rarely went to Joey's house, but when we did, it was a treat. His house projected an aesthetic that fascinated me. The living areas were like exploring a small museum displaying objects out of a cabinet of curiosities of a Renaissance collector. He had art, a real leather couch, and a cool stereo. The kitchen area in his house was slightly chaotic and well-used: a loaf of bread and butter out on the counter, and crumbs.

My mother, Joey's sister, kept a different house. We had living areas filled with ordinary stuff: a penny jar, empty chianti fiaschi, posters, and a fabric couch. Our kitchen looked like it was rarely used, everything neatly put away, not a crumb or anything to be found on the counters.

Joey built his house by hand, at least in my mind. It was part lodge, part tree-house, constructed in natural woods with an open floor plan, and views to the surrounding countryside. By contrast, our pre-fab house arrived on a tractor trailer in two halves that were snapped together creating a rabbit warren of small rooms with flimsy walls. We looked out on our neighbors in a suburban track development. We had puke-colored carpet that scratched our skin during wrestling matches. No natural hardwood floors for us.

I remember my uncle Joey projecting manliness and outdoor ruggedness with a touch of sophistication that seemed lacking in other people in my life.  His skills seemed practical. With his forestry degree, he could identify trees and tell stories about them. What could be cooler than that? Boy did he knew how to grow trees - lots of them. It seemed that people paid him well for that skill.

My dad delivered fuel oil, ancient trees in liquid form.

A case of the trees looking greener on the other side of the fence? Maybe so. I was always secretly envious of my two cousins, Joey's daughters. I wanted to be part of their family. Though, I’m guessing my cousins' image and experience of their dad is likely a tad different than mine.

Heck, Joey even had a waterbed and once, with my two cousins, we sneaked up and bounced around on it. Now that's living I thought.

~~Odd Satellites~~

I admit the line between fact and myth is a bit blurred in regard to my uncle Joey, but I kind of like it that way. I imagine him working for days in the forest, able to survive on wit. He seemed to know something about everything, and I was ever so curious. Yes, you can fondle my earlobe if you tell me a story about a tree.

It's odd that later I would gravitate toward traits similar to an uncle I barely knew, be it a love of nature and trees, a fascination for what things are called, or even an aesthetic about how to keep my home. (Not earlobes though.)

While my siblings and I spent a lot of time with my mother's family, my uncles were like distant satellites checking in periodically in their orbit around my grandmother. My grandmother was sort of gravitational force that once in her pull, it was hard to escape. One of my other uncles called my grandmother the "planet".

Figuring large into the physics my family was the tumultuous relationship between my mother and her mother, and the constant tension in the air between my mother and her brothers - at least perceived by this 10 year old kid. This was a solar system that had problems.

One uncle seemed to always be strung out and didn't want anything to do with pesky nephews and nieces. Another uncle lived far away, drove a VW bug, was viciously smart and cruel. We'd see him occasionally and that was enough. A third uncle was dark and handsome, but prone to bouts of anger. I remember him jumping up and down on a car roof and brandishing a gun.

That left my uncle Joey, the oldest of the brothers and seemingly most sane. So what if that came with a little ear fondling.

~~~Carl Sagan~~~

My uncle Joey once gave me the book Broca's Brain: Reflections on the Romance of Science, the 1979 book by astrophysicist Carl Sagan. I was about 15 at the time, and I remember the book being an invitation to enter into Joey's world. A book I ought to read. A book that Joey thought was important. The book's black cover and somber red title font conveyed seriousness.

I didn't read it, at least not right away. It wasn't until many years later that I made it through Broca's Brain, sorry for the lost opportunity to have discussed it with Joey during one of his ear fondling sessions.

If I had to give one image to fix in your mind the image of my uncle Joey, Carl Sagan would in fact be it. Joey, 10 years younger than Sagan, I imagine followed Sagan as a role model, in scientific leaning as well as in fashion. Joey's thick dark hair was always swept to one side, not too fussy much like Sagan's. As well, my uncle was prone to wearing a tan corduroy jacket, with elbow patches, and a simple turtle neck sweater underneath. I suppose the seventies were partly to blame.

Joey even spoke like Carl Sagan with a slow deliberate cadence. He gazed at you as if sizing you up, formulating the right question to catch you off balance. He wasn't the kind of uncle to ask you a quick math problem. No, it was a more serious question that made you think deeper. Something about stars and infinity, like Sagan would ask.

Joey attended Paul Smith's college in the Adirondacks where he studied forestry, and taught at the University of Connecticut. He was by all means the most successful in the family, if not the most revered. He was a Sagan in training. A few years after he gave me Broca's Brain, I left home and the unstable solar system, and slowly lost contact with my uncle and his life during the 1980s and early 1990s. I don't understand the details of what happened, but it's fair to say that his life got derailed: a divorce, drugs, and untimely death.

~~~~The Man Behind the Camera~~~~

All I have left of Joey are a few photos and vague stories about the photos. First, there's the black and white photo of me and my brother sitting in the grass. We are about 4 and 6 years old. I stare mischievously at Joey behind the camera, while my brother gazes bored at the ground. The photo transports me back to my grandmother's yard long the Farmington Valley River in Connecticut. It was our playground when we were young. If we were lucky, my uncle Joey would be there and with camera.


My grandmother's tiny dining room was the stage for countless family events. The room had two windows, a closet, a desk, a hutch filled with nick-knacks, and two doorways that took up most of the wall space in the room. What little wall space remained was taken up by examples of my grandmother's needlepoint and a photograph of Michelangelo's David taken by Joey.  In the photo, David is photographed from the side and superimposed on a photo of a galaxy. A master of the photography and photo-processing, the image is an example of the blend of art and science that Joey embodied.

My grandmother wasn't one for putting up much art, so this photo was important to her. If only that photo could talk and relate the what it saw over all those years. 

I have very few photos of Joey himself. He worked the other side of the camera mostly. Of the photos I do have, two stand out. The first is a 1975 black and white snapshot. Joey is bare-chested and holding my recently-born cousin. Both gaze out of the photo as if in a stare-down match with the viewer. The second photo, is one of the last taken of him in 1993, a year before his death. A very gaunt, shell of the man from the first picture stands by the same cousin, now fully grown and recently-graduated. Joey stands behind my cousin and my grandparents encircling them with outstretched arms as if swooping in behind them. Protecting or holding on, I can't decide. An impossibly bright bank of yellow school lockers dominates the photo. There is tension in everyone's faces.

~~~~~Earlobes and Star-stuff~~~~~

I remember the call from my mother: "Joey is dead. He froze to death." On a cold January day in 1994 he wandered into a roofless building that was under construction in the prosaic village of Pine Meadow, got locked in, and was found the next day. Some say maybe he went to the liquor store nearby, got drunk, and became trapped. Some say he knew he was dying and went there knowing the consequences. Others say it was an accident and he was too weak to get out. Whatever the explanation, he died in nature, which seemed strangely fitting. It was a cold, mysterious, and unfinished ending for me, much like my relationship with him. Our relationship froze at the point of the young boy who had a minute or two with an enigmatic ear fondler.

What are earlobes for? It seems the jury is out. Various suggestions include helping collect sound for the ears, acting as an erogenous zone, making us more attractive to partners, or just plain having lost their major biological function being vestiges of an earlier function. More ambiguity to live with, just like Joey's passion for the Lobulus auriculae, as earlobes are called in Latin and which I'm sure Joey would have known.

Many of my memories of Joey capture some aspect of truth, but never quite reveal him fully. But where there isn’t fact, fantasy fills in nicely. I’ll have to live with the ambiguity. I don't know what the purpose of an earlobe is let alone why my uncle liked to fondle them. So be it.

Carl Sagan died two years later in 1996. As Sagan said in his iconic Cosmos series: "The cosmos is within us. We are made of star-stuff. We are a way for the universe to know itself." Both Sagan and my uncle are now part of that star-stuff. I hope the universe can figure out the ear thing.