Wednesday, July 2, 2025

A Hike from Ceresola (Valtorta) to Piani di Bobbio


Waking east, descending from Passo del Gandazzo 1660m View from Piani di Bobbio into Valsassina with Grigna in the background left View toward Zuccone dei Campelli 2159m
Left: Waking east, descending from Passo del Gandazzo 1660m.
Center: View from Piani di Bobbio into Valsassina with Grigna in the background left,
Right: View from Piani di Bobbio toward Zuccone dei Campelli 2159m.

Overview

Length: 3 hours
Duration: 9.4 km
Elevation gain: 406 m
Location: Italy, Lombardy, Val Brembana, Valtorta

Notes

The access to Piani di Bobbio is typically from Barzio (Lecco provice) where there is a cable car. We’ve always come up from the Valtorta (Bergamo province) side, where there is no cable car. At Rifugio Trifoglio in Valtorata there is a large parking lot. In the winter, there is a chair lift to take you up (not a cable car) and in summer, just your legs.

We did a hike from Piani di Artavaggio and Piani di Bobbio in 2023, see the post Hiking Between Piani di Artavaggio and Piani di Bobbio. But during that hike we stayed high and didn’t descend into Valtorta.

We’ve skied twice at Piani di Bobbio, so it was fun to see what the ski slopes and meadows look like in the summer. Answer: full of grass and wildflowers!

We made a small loop hike today, starting and stopping in località Ceresola, steps away from the parking lot. There is a bar/restaurant there to grab something before and after the hike. In Piani di Bobbio, there are several rifugi to choose from as well.


Flora


[Asteraceae] Cirsium sp.
[Asteraceae] Cirsium sp.

[Asteraceae] Jacobaea sp.
[Asteraceae] Jacobaea sp. - not 100% sure about this identification.

[Liliaceae] Lilium bulbiferum
[Liliaceae] Lilium bulbiferum


[Ranunculaceae] Aquilegia atrata
[Ranunculaceae] Aquilegia atrata

Photos

Beech forest above Cerasola Decending into the Ceresola località above Valtorta Hike tracks
Left: Beech forest in Valtorta.
Center: Descending on località Ceresola (Valtorta).
Right: Hike tracks.

Passo del Cedrino - Decision point to go right into Ceresola or left to Rifugio Buzzoni Piani di Bobbio and Zuccone dei Campelli 2159m Walking on a ski slope, view east
Left: Passo del Cedrino in Valtorta.
Center: Piani di Bobbio and Zuccone dei Campelli 2159m.
Right: Walking on a ski slope of Piani di Bobbio above Valtorta, view east.

Monday, June 30, 2025

Valtellina Week Hike 5: Alpe Val Poschiavina


Terzo Laghetto di Campagneda - reflections of Mount Disgrazia, clouds and sky The northwest flanks of Pizzo Scalino
Lakes below Passo di Campagneda Tracks for Alpe Val Poschiavina Hike
Top left: Terzo Laghetto di Campagneda - reflections of Mount Disgrazia, clouds and sky.
Top right: The northwest flanks of Pizzo Scalino.
Bottom left: Lakes below Passo di Campagneda.
Bottom right: Tracks for Alpe Val Poschiavina Hike. We went clockwise.

Overview


Length
: 19.5 km
Duration: 6.5 hours 
Elevation gain: 665 m
Location: Italy, Lombardy, Valtellina

Notes


In this post, we are on hike 5 of our Valtellina hiking week. Like hike 4, we started and ended at Rifugio Zoia where we were staying for 3 nights. From the rifugio, we walked the 1.5 km to the Alpe Gera Dam, climbed up the dam, and then instead of going on the west side of the basin/lake to get to Rifugio Bignami as in hike 4, we stayed on the east side of the lake to reach Val Alpe Poschiavina.

This hike brings you to the Swiss border at Pass da Cancian. We kept seeing stone markers and finally it dawned on us we were on the border between Italy and Switzerland.

At the Pass da Cancian there is a good view of the Altipiano of Fellaria to the north and a view east into the Poschiavo valley. Just a few days earlier, we were climbing up the Poschiava valley in the Bernina Express.

Continuing from Pass da Cancian to Passo di Campagneda, you arrive at the high point of the hike at 2636 m. From this point on, Monte Disgrazia is always in the distance to the west.

Just below Passo di Campagneda, we met Alice. We spent the previous night together at Zoia but we did not talk to her because she arrived late and bedraggled. She started out from Rifugio Zoia in one direction and us in the other, and we met in the middle. Alice is from Switzerland (Bern canton) and was hiking from Maloja Switzerland to Poschiavo Switzerland, passing through Italy. She was by herself and fully equipped but minus a cell phone. What an inspiration at 80 years old!


Flora



[Asteraceae] Tussilago farfara
[Asteraceae] Tussilago farfara

[Campanulaceae] Phyteuma sp.
[Campanulaceae] Phyteuma sp.

[Caryophyllaceae] Silene acaulis
[Caryophyllaceae] Silene acaulis

[Gentianaceae] Gentiana sp.
[Gentianaceae] Gentiana sp.

[Orobanchaceae] Bartsia alpina
[Orobanchaceae] Bartsia alpina

[Primulaceae] Primula latifolia
[Primulaceae] Primula latifolia

[Primulaceae] Soldanella alpina
[Primulaceae] Soldanella alpina

[Ranunculaceae] Pulsatilla sp.
[Ranunculaceae] Pulsatilla sp.

[Rosaceae] Dryas octopetala
[Rosaceae] Dryas octopetala

[Rosaceae] Potentilla sp.
[Rosaceae] Potentilla sp.

[Thymelaceae] Daphne striata
[Thymelaceae] Daphne striata

[Violaceae] Viola biflora
[Violaceae] Viola biflora



Photos


Passo di Campagneda Swiss Italian border marker near Alpe Poschiavina A piece of serpentine near Passo di Campagneda Santuario Madonna della Pace
Left: The wooden arch at Passo di Campagneda.
Center left: A marker on the Swiss Italian border near Pass da Cancian.
Center right: A piece of serpentine near Passo di Campagneda.
Right: Santuario Madonna della Pace, Prabello.

Terzo Laghetto di Campagneda View from Alpe Val Poschiavina toward Altipiano Fellaria Entering Alpe Val Poschiavina
Left: Look at the reflections on Terzo Laghetto di Campagneda - reflections of Mount Disgrazia, clouds and sky.
Center: Looking north over Alpe Val Poschiavina.
Right: Entering into Alpe Val Poschiavina - with Alpe Gera Dam behind us.

Heading toward the Alpe Prabello and Rifugio Cristina View from Rifugio Cristina Village near Rifugio Ca Runcasch
Left: Heading toward the Alpe Prabello and Rifugio Cristina
Center: View from Rifugio Cristina, Alpe Prabello.
Right: Houses near Rifugio Ca Runcasch.

Valtellina Week Hike 4: Fellaria Glacier East and Rifugio Bignami


Fellaria East Glacier Lake edge Heading toward Rifugio Bignami with Alpe Gera lake on the right
Fellaria East Glacier Lake edge [Saxifragaceae] Saxifraga byroides
Top left: Fellaria East Glacier Lake showing cliff with tongue or terminus with proglacial lake.
Top right: Heading toward Rifugio Bignami with Alpe Gera lake on the right.
Bottom left: Fellaria East Glacier Lake edge.
Bottom right: [Saxifragaceae] Saxifraga byroides

Overview


Length
: 19 km
Duration: 8.5 hours (including time at the glacier lake, and lunch at Rifugio Bignami)
Elevation gain: 684 m
Location: Italy, Lombardy, Valtellina

Notes


In this post, we are on hike 4 of our Valtellina hiking week. We started this hike from and returned to Rifugio Zoia, where we stayed for 3 nights. Great rifugio and place. (We had a private room with bathroom!) We walked from Zoia to Diga Alpe Gera (about 1.5 km), where the hike really starts. You can also park at dam in a large parking lot.

Rifugio Bignami is more or less the midpoint to on the trail hiking from the Alpe Gera dam to the Fellaria East glacier lake.

The Fellaria Glacier (Ghiacciaio Fellaria) is in the Alta Valmalenco, province of Sondrio (Lombardy, Italian Alps), right below the Swiss border. Its upper plateau reaches about 3500 m a.s.l. and today its terminus sits near 2 600 m, where meltwater has pooled into a small proglacial lake. This lake is the real destination of today’s hike. And specifically, we are visiting the east tongue of the glacier. Up through the Little Ice Age (ca 1850) there were two glacier tongues (Fellaria West and East) joined into one continuous ice front, but retreat has isolated the eastern tongue and given rise to the lake between them.

We followed the Luigi Marson glaciological trail (Sentiero Glaciologico Marson) from Rifugio Bignami. Very informative signs and survey markers along the Luigi Marson glaciological trail chart a retreat of roughly 800 - 1000 m (that’s eight to ten football fields) since the mid-19th-century maximum. Almost all of that loss has happened in the last few decades, and the “lake” we visit today only existed in its present form from the early 2000s onward. Argh, so disheartening to see.

Luigi Marson was an Italian glaciologist-educator and professor at the Regio Istituto Tecnico di Sondrio and a member of the Società Geografica Italiana. He wrote the first systematic glaciological descriptions of Lombardy’s glaciers in 1899. In his honor, the Servizio Glaciologico Lombardo inaugurated the “Sentiero Glaciologico Luigi Marson” in 1996—a thematic trail (today’s hike) around the Fellaria–Palù ice masses designed to bring hikers up close to Alpine glacial environments.

During our hike today, we crossed paths with a group of retirees from Sondrio. They hike every Thursday and one of their rituals in the mountains is to sing the song Signore delle cime ("Lord of the Mountain Tops"). This popular Italian song of prayer was written by Bepi De Marzi in 1958. The group of retirees we met sing it as a tribute to friends they've lost. They performed it for us while we were sitting after lunch at Rifugio Bignami. Very touching.

Flora


[Caryophyllaceae] Cerastium alpinum
[Caryophyllaceae] Cerastium alpinum


[Geraniaceae] Geranium sylvaticum
[Geraniaceae] Geranium sylvaticum

[Plantaginaceae] Linaria alpina
[Plantaginaceae] Linaria alpina

[Ranunculaceae] Ranunculus alpestris
[Ranunculaceae] Ranunculus alpestris

[Rosaceae] Geum reptans [Rosaceae] Geum reptans
[Rosaceae] Geum reptans


[Saxifragaceae] Saxifraga byroides  [Saxifragaceae] Saxifraga byroides
[Saxifragaceae] Saxifraga byroides


Photos




The proglacial lake of Fellaria East Glacier. Staring at the Fellaria East Glacier. View from glacier view point back to Alpe Gera Dam.
Left: The proglacial lake of Fellaria East Glacier.
Center: Staring at the Fellaria East Glacier.
Right: View from glacier view point back to Alpe Gera Dam.

  
Left: Rifugio Bignami.
Center: Rifugio Bignami - tortina.
Right: Rifugio Bignami - bresaola and sciatt.

An ibex's horns stick out behind a rock. A group of ibex at the proglacial edge. Information about who is Luigi Marson was - the glacier trail is named after him.
Left: An ibex's horns stick out behind a rock.
Center: A group of ibex at the proglacial edge.
Right: Information about who is Luigi Marson was - the glacier trail is named after him.


Glacier Info - Schematic shows Fellaria West and East and Sasso Rosso that divides them as well as surrounding peaks. Glacier Info - Explanation of the parts and retreat of Fellaria West Glacier Info - explanation of glacial erratics and roche moutonnée rock formations caused by glacier. Tracks from Rifugio Zoia to Fellaria Glacier East.
Left: Glacier Info - Schematic shows Fellaria West, East, and Sasso Rosso dividing them as well as surrounding peaks.
Center left: Glacier Info - Explanation of the parts and retreat of Fellaria West.
Center right: Glacier Info - explanation of glacial erratics and roche moutonnée rock formations caused by glacier.
Right: Tracks from Rifugio Zoia to Fellaria Glacier East.

Glacier Info - Explanation of Fellaria East glacial lake and surrounding features - glacier reached here once in 2000 Glacier Info - explaining the pillow formations seen in alpine meadows Glacier Info - a sign showing how far the glacier has retreated Glacier Info - There paths A, B, and C
Left: Glacier Info - Explanation of Fellaria East glacial lake and features - glacier reached here once in 2000.
Center left: Glacier Info - explaining the pillow formations seen in alpine meadows.
Center right: Glacier Info - a sign showing how far the glacier has retreated.
Right: Glacier Info - There paths A, B, and C to the Marson trail.

Glacial erratic - Masso erratico example Fellaria Est Glacial Lake - Eastern Part Fellaria East Glacier Lake edge
Left: Glacial erratic - Masso erratico example.
Center: Fellaria Est Glacial Lake - Eastern Part.
Right: Fellaria East Glacier Lake edge.


A view across Alpe Gera lake to the start of Alpe Val Poschiavina. Diga Alpe Gera and the ramp to get up on the dam - hikers must go up the ramp. Campo Moro Lake - Rifugio Zoia to the right out of frame. 
Left: A view across Alpe Gera lake to the start of Alpe Val Poschiavina.
Center: Diga Alpe Gera and the ramp to get up on the dam - hikers must go up the ramp.
Right: Campo Moro Lake - Rifugio Zoia to the right out of frame.