The Many Faces of Pizzoccheri

A composite image of 12 pizzoccheri dishes from Valtellina and the Bergamasque Alps from 2020 to 2025.


We were hiking recently in two different locations in Valtellina valley: in Valfurva just outside of Bormio and Chiesa in Valmalenco, north of Sondrio. For the week we were in the valley, we had pizzoccheri every day.

 
What are pizzoccheri?

Pizzoccheri are a flat ribbon pasta, made with a blend of buckwheat flour and wheat flour and served with cabbage, potatoes, cheese, butter and garlic.

Pizzoccheri are believed to have originated in Valtellina, a valley in the northern Italian region of Lombardy. Traditionally, pizzoccheri dough is made with about two parts buckwheat flour to one part wheat flour. The Accademia del Pizzocchero di Teglio specifies an official ratio of 75 % buckwheat to 25 % soft wheat flour (plus water) for authentic Pizzoccheri di Teglio. Teglio claims to be the “spiritual home” of pizzoccheri, possibly due to its centuries-old role in buckwheat cultivation.

Almost every trattoria, osteria, and mountain hut in Valtellina will have pizzoccheri on their menu. And each one has a slightly different take on the recipe.

Where is the Valtellina?

Valtellina is a valley in northern Italy, in the Lombardy region. The valley runs from the top of Lago Como eastward for about 55 km before bending northeast for another 45 km to finish in Bormio. The valley is bordered to the north by the Rhaetian Alps (and Switzerland) and to the south by the Bergamasque Alps and the rest of Lombardy.

Moving from west to east, Sondrio is the administrative center of Valtellina, Teglio is the spiritual home of pizzoccheri, and Bormio—at the very east and north of the valley—is the ski and spa play area.

Why buckwheat?

In Valtellina, farmers turned to buckwheat (gran saraceno in Italian) because it was ideally suited to their steep, marginal terrain and cool-short Alpine season. Planted into the thin, rocky soils of south-facing terraces buckwheat can make use of land that couldn’t support more demanding cereals like wheat.

Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) is a flowering plant in the knotweed family Polygonaceae prized for its grain-like seeds and as a cover crop. Despite its name, buckwheat is not closely related to wheat. Buckwheat is not a cereal, nor is it a member of the grass family. It is related to sorrel, knotweed, and rhubarb. However, buckwheat is considered a pseudo-cereal because of the high starch content of the seeds enables buckwheat to be cooked and consumed like a cereal.

The name "buckwheat" or "beech wheat" comes from its tetrahedral seeds, which resemble the much larger seeds of the beech nut from the beech tree, and the fact that it is used like wheat.

The crop’s biology dovetailed with Valtellina’s climate. Buckwheat needs only a brief growing window—its vegetative cycle spans 60–100 days—and can be sown as soon as temperatures stay above about 8 °C, then harvested by mid-October before hard frosts arrive. It thrives in cool conditions, resists the pests and fungal diseases that plague wetter grains, and demands neither irrigation nor fertile topsoil.

Final thoughts?

When we make pizzoccheri at home, it’s soupier, has less cheese and more cabbage and greens, and has sage in it. Most of the pizzoccheri (and the original recipe by the Accademia in Teglio as well) do not use sage. We need to tell them that they are doing it wrong next time we in the valley.

We were at Rifugio Pizzini for lunch recently and ordered pizzoccheri. With the dish, the waiter brought out a small jar homemade seasoning she called pestèda to put on top of the pasta. Ah! We had this once before in Osteria La Bajona (Bormio) years ago and forgot about it. This seasoning is not that common and has its origins in the town of Grosio (midway between Teglio and Bormio). The seasoning contains as a base salt, pepper, garlic, achillea leaves, and thyme (Thymus serpyllum). The one we tried in Pizzini has juniper berries and if we understood correctly dried wine (whatever that might be). The type of achillea used is either A. nana (on a jar we purchased in a store in Sondrio), or we think it would be easier to gather A. erba-rotta, but we aren’t positive on this.

Composite Image Row 1: 

2020-09-02 Morbegno - Antica Osteria Rapella 1886 - pizzoccheri

2020-09-05 Bormio - Osteria La Bajona - pizzoccheri

2020-09-08 Home cooked pizzoccheri

Composite Image Row 2:

2021-08-21 Valtorta  - Rifugio Grassi - pizzoccheri

2021-11-02 Bergamo - Pizzoccheri at Il Coccio

2022-01-30 Oltre il Cole - Pizzoccheri at Capanna 2000

Composite Image Row 3:

2023-08-06 Preda Rossa - Rifugio Cesare Ponti - pizzoccheri

2025-02-04 - Home cooked pizzoccheri con cavolfiori e verza

2025-05-15 Valfurva - Pizzoccheri at Rifugio Branca

Composite Image Row 4:

2025-06-16 Val Zebru - Pizzoccheri at Rifugio Campo

2025-06-17 Valfurva - Pizzoccheri at Rifugio Pizzini

2025-06-18 Lanzada - Pizzoccheri at Rifugio Zoia

Travelmarx Spring 2025 Playlist - Bourgeois Manqué

40 album covers for Travelmarx Spring 2025 Playlist – Bourgeois Manqué

Ah yes, the annual Travelmarx summer playlist—where we cast our hot musical selections into the cosmos of infinite choice. Perhaps, one day, curiosity will strike, and we’ll find ourselves wondering, "What was that one song?" 

We’ve named this playlist Bourgeois Manqué, inspired by Dean Wareham’s opening track. The term captures a yearning or striving for middle-class stability that is just out of reach. Financial constraints, missed opportunities, self-sabotage? All of the above. 

So here it is. A collection of songs for the aspirational, the wistful, the resigned. Enjoy. Spotify.


Dean Wareham - album “That’s the Price of Loving Me”, song “Bourgeois Manqué”
Lael Neale - album “Tell Me How To Be Here”, song “Tell Me How To Be Here”
Dana Gavanski - album “Wind Songs”, song “I Talk to the Wind”
The South Hill Experiment - album “EARTHBREAKS”, song “Name a Star”
Baqui - album “Oxis”, song “Baqui”
Saul Adamczewski, Marley Mackey - album “The Coward”, song “Cholera”
Tunng, William Doyle - album “Snails (William Doyle Remix)”, song “Snails - William Doyle Remix”
Saya Gray - album “SAYA”, song “10 WAYS ( TO LOSE A CROWN )”

Woo - album “Music to Watch Seeds Grow By 001: Woo (Sweet Peas)”, song “H2O Revisited”
Papooz, Erlend Øye - album “Make It Work”, song “Make It Work”
Panda Bear - album “Sinister Grift”, song “50mg”
Youth Lagoon - album “Rarely Do I Dream”, song “Canary”
Ledus - album “Beloved”, song “Beloved”
Adrian Crowley - album “Measure Of Joy”, song “Measure Of Joy”
Dark Dark Dark - album “Bright Bright Bright”, song “Bright Bright Bright”
Japanese Breakfast - album “Soft Sounds from Another Planet”, song “Diving Woman”

POLIÇA - album “Madness”, song “Alive”
Heather Woods Broderick - album “Glider”, song “A Call for Distance”
Jenny Hval - album “Classic Objects”, song “American Coffee”
Lady Blackbird - album “Black Acid Soul”, song “Collage”
Scrimshire, Miryam Solomon - album “Nothing Feels Like Everything”, song “Heron”
Jack J - album “Blue Desert”, song “Born Without a Smile”
Tunng - album “Turbines”, song “By This”
Blonde Redhead - album “3 O'Clock”, song “Where Your Mind Wants to Go”

Loren Kramar - album “Glovemaker”, song “Hollywood Blvd E”
Molly Burch - album “First Flower”, song “To the Boys”
Alex Maas - album “Luca”, song “Been Struggling”
Big Black Delta - album “Big Black Delta”, song “Love You This Summer”
Michael Kiwanuka - album “Light (Edit)”, song “Light – Edit"
Yukimi, Little Dragon - album “Sad Makeup”, song “Sad Makeup”
The Leisure Society - album “The Sleeper & a Product of the Ego Drain”, song “We Were Wasted”
anaiis, Grupo Cosmo - album “anaiis & Grupo Cosmo”, song “B.P.E”

Erika de Casier - album “Essentials”, song “Little Bit”
Chris Cohen – album “Paint a Room”, song “Dog’s Face”
helen island – album “silence is priceless”, song “me & who ?”
Chinese American Bear – album “Wah!!!”, song “Magic Number”
Azymuth – album “Zé e Paraná”, song “Zé e Paraná”
Samantha Crain – album “Pick Apart”, song “Bloomsday”
Death Machine – album “Orbit”, song "Isle of Mine”
Camp Saint Helene – album “Of Earth and its Timely Delights”, song “Anniversary”

Temples and Shrines, Gardens and Connection to Nature in Japan

A composite image of 25 plants and flowers we saw in Japan.

It's been 2 weeks since our Japan trip and we are still sorting through pictures. Unsurprisingly, we are finding many plant photos. The composite image for this post shows some of these photos; all of the photos were taken in a temple or shrine, which got use thinking about the function of these spaces in Japanese cities.

Japan’s temples and shrines offer a tranquil escape from the bustling cities, often nestled in landscapes filled with lush greenery. These sacred sites, whether Buddhist temples or Shinto shrines, are not just places of worship but also havens of nature, where you can relax under towering sugi trees, walk alongside moss gardens and or sip tea in a teahouse gazing out at a curated garden.

Some estimates state that Japan has approximately 80,000 shrines and temples across the country. This means that in many cities, these spiritual sites are as common as convenience stores. With that ubiquity it's easy to get in the trap of trying to see them all. It became clear to us after a few days in Japan that no, we don’t need to see them all, and we should choose ones that were interesting to us.

Japan has a remarkably diversity of flora when you consider its relatively small land area. This is due thanks to the country’s geographical 3,000 kilometers range from the subarctic north of Hokkaido to the subtropical south of Okinawa. This variation in climate allows for a wide array of plant species, including evergreen forests in the south, broad-leaved deciduous forests in central Japan, and alpine vegetation in the mountainous regions.

Beyond these observations, it’s important to note that Japanese culture has a deep, almost intrinsic connection with nature, and this relationship is fostered both through formal education and longstanding cultural practices. We could sense this connection. Even in a city like Tokyo, stepping into alley from a main road, we would find plants adorning entrances or facades.

From an early age, children learn about the natural world in school, often through field trips to local parks, temples, and natural reserves. These experiences, alongside lessons in the classroom, are designed to instill not only an appreciation for the beauty of Japan’s diverse landscapes but also a sense of responsibility for preserving them. This early education is complemented by the cultural ethos shaped by Shinto and Buddhist traditions, where nature itself is revered as sacred. Children grow up seeing natural elements—be they mountains, forests, or even interesting plants in temple gardens—as important parts of their heritage and daily lives.

Kamakura, Japan – Two Short Hikes

  
Left: Sign describing the Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
Center: Sign Describing the Gion-yama Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.

Right: Satellite view of Kamakura, Japan showing two hikes described in this post.

We were in Kamakura for 3 days, at the end of our Japan Trip. In between eating and visiting temples and shrines, we managed to get two very short hikes in. We are calling them hikes because you need some good shoes to be on these trails, and they were at times steep and muddy.

Viewed from above, Kamakura’s settlements and sharp forested hills look like ridges and creases of a brain. And while the greenness might seem sparse at first glance, it is a lush and vibrant landscape once you are inside of it as on these two trails.

Trail 1: The Daibutsu Hiking Trail is a scenic forest path in Kamakura that connects Jochi-ji Temple near Kita-Kamakura Station to Kotoku-in, home of the Great Buddha (Daibutsu). This 2.5-kilometer trail winds through wooded hills, offering a peaceful escape from the bustling city while passing by lesser-known temples and shrines. Along the way, hikers can visit Zeniarai Benten Shrine, Sasuke Inari Shrine, and Genjiyama Park, making it a great route for both nature lovers and history enthusiasts. The Kuzuharaoka Hiking Course is closely linked to the Daibutsu Trail and is sometimes considered part of it. This route also passes through Genjiyama Park and leads to Kuzuharaoka Shrine, which is known for its matchmaking rituals. The two trails overlap in certain sections, but the Kuzuharaoka Course has its own distinct path and highlights.

Views of the Kuzuharaoka-Daibutsu Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
  

  
 



Trail 2: The Gion-yama Hiking Course goes from From Tōshō-ji Site to Yakumo Shrine. Just before descending to the Yakumo Shrine, there is a scenic point with a view looking west over Kamakura.

Views of the Gion-yama Hiking Course in Kamakura, Japan.
  
  
  

Kawai Kanjiro’s House in Kyoto

Overview | About Kanjiro | Climbing Kiln | Pottery and Chairs

    

Views from Kawai Kanjiro's house in Kyoto. Pottery, rooms, chairs, and climbing kiln.

Overview

On our recent Japan trip, we spent a week in Kyoto. One morning, we stopped by the house museum of Kawai Kanjiro. We knew nothing about Kanjiro before we went and walked away enjoying his pottery, the house he designed, and the chairs we saw there (more on that later). Also, there is an awesome coffee shop nearby, Ichikawaya Coffee that has great coffee and fruit sandwiches. The museum plus coffee makes for a perfect break from the temples and shrines.

About Kanjiro

Kawai Kanjiro (1890–1966) was a master potter and ceramist who made a profound mark on Japan’s craft and design landscape. Not only was he pivotal to the mingei, or folk craft movement, which celebrated the beauty and functionality of everyday objects, but his creative genius spanned across wood carving, calligraphy, sculpture, and even writing. He imbued his work with poetic intuition and a deep respect for functional beauty, that continues to inspire.

In 1937, Kanjiro designed his Kyoto residence with a singular vision: to create a seamless fusion between home and workshop. Located in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto, the house was conceived as a vibrant living space where everyday life and creative practice intersected. It was built to accommodate not only his living quarters but also a studio and a climbing kiln. Every element of the space—from the fixtures to the furnishings (chairs?)—bears his distinctive mark, creating an intimate experience for visitors.

     
      

      

   

Climbing Kiln

Notably, the house still hosts his original wood-fired kilns—with chambers capable of reaching temperatures between 850°C and 1,150°C—that were integral to his craft.

The climbing kiln, known in Japanese as the noborigama, dates back centuries in Japan and was already an established method for firing ceramics. What Kanjiro did was build his own climbing kiln in 1920 for his studio in Kyoto—a personal adaptation of a traditional technique rather than a new invention. His kiln allowed him to experiment with innovative glaze techniques and firing methods, which in turn had a significant impact on modern studio pottery and the mingei (folk art) movement. This adaptation was part of his broader commitment to blending traditional craftsmanship with new ideas, not an attempt to reinvent the kiln design itself.

The noborigama had long been used by potters to achieve multiple firing temperatures and effects by firing several chambers simultaneously on a slope. Kanjiro’s choice to use this kiln was rooted in his respect for traditional methods and his desire to harness their unique qualities in his work. His focus was more on the artistic innovations in glaze application and form rather than on the kiln's structural design.


Photos of the climbing kiln at Kawai Kanjiro's house.
    

      

Chairs and Pottery

The Kanjiro house is well-preserved, offering a glimpse into the daily life of a modern Japanese artist of the early 20th century. Walking through its rooms, you encounter ceramics, calligraphies, wood carvings, personal collections, and furnishings. Traditional elements, such as sliding shoji screens, wooden lattices, and an authentic hearth, combine easily with Western design.

As you would expect there are interesting pieces of pottery throughout the house as they might have been in Kanjiro's time. In the studio area, pottery is arranged more as if for an exhibition, but still pleasing.

We were also struck by the interesting variety of chairs we saw in Kanjiro's house. We were wondering if Kanjiro himself designed them, had them made, or simply purchased them. They all looked severe yet comfortable, improbable yet organic. Nice pottery, but did you see those chairs!?

Pottery we saw in Kawai Kanjiro's house.
   

   

Chairs we saw in Kawai Kanjiro's house.