Saturday, August 19, 2023

Hiking Between Piani di Artavaggio and Piani di Bobbio


View of Monte Sodadura from Rifugio Cazzaniga MerliniDescending into Piani di Bobbio along trail 101_2Sentiero degli stradini between Piani di Bobbio and Piani di Artavaggio
Left: Starting out the hike in Piani di Artavaggio with Monte Sodadura in the distance.
Center: On Trail 101_b above Piani di Bobbi.
Right: The trail called "Sentiero degli stradini" connecting Piani di Bobbio with Piani di Artavaggio.

Overview


Duration
: 5 hours total with stops, 3:40 moving
Elevation: 567 m gain
Length: 14.3 km
Location: Italy, Lecco Province, Valsassina

The location of this hike is Valsassina, a valley east of Lago Como, and about one hour away from Bergamo by car. On the east side of this valley there are two high pasture areas called Piani di Artavaggio and Piani di Bobbio, both areas running between 1600 m and 2000 m.

Piani di Bobbio means the “pastures of Bobbio”. In the early Middle Ages, these pastures were owned by the Abbey of San Colombano di Bobbio, in the province of Piacenza, hence the current name. Of the name “Artavaggio”, we could not find any news. It seems like a made-up name.

You can reach Piani di Artavaggio with the funivia (cable car) in Moggio at (900 m), which is how we arrived.

The absolute worst day to go is on Ferragosto (August 15), when we went. Should have known! Despite searching for parking for 20 minutes and finding something a kilometer away from the cable car, we managed to make it up to the “piani” and start our walk without too much trouble. The Milanese and Lecchese that frequent these alpine pastures tend to find a spot in the sun and camp out for this holiday. On the trails we saw few hikers.

Our hike was a roundtrip walk between Piani di Artavaggio and Piani di Bobbio heading out on Sentiero 101_b and coming back on Sentiero degli Stradini. Sentiero 101 b is part of the Sentiero delle Orobie occidentale (west). Back in 2018, we did the Sentiero delle Orobie orientale (east) - see Seven Days on the Sentiero delle Orobie - A Journey Throught the Bergamo Alps.

The Senteiro degli Stradini had some exposed parts where cables were attached and were VERY much needed. We took this trail back to Piani di Artavaggio to avoid following 101_b back and see different scenery. 

This being Ferragosto, the rifugi were hopping. Mid-morning, we stopped at Rifugio Nicola for a coffee and snack, and then started on 101_b toward Piani di Bobbio. We had planned to eat at Rifugio Lecco (Piani di Bobbio) but it was so busy, that we kept walking and returned to Piani di Artavaggio to eat at Rifugio Casari.


Plants


[Asteraceae] Adenostyles sp.
[Asteraceae] Adenostyles sp

[Asteraceae] Rhaponticum scariosum
[Asteracease] Rhaponticum scariosum

[Rosaceae] Rubus saxatilis
[Rosaceae] Rubus saxatilis

[Rosaceae] Sorbus chamaemespilus
[Rosaceae] Sorbus chamaemespilus

Photos


On Trail 101_b on the west side of Zucco BarbesinoRifugio Cazzaniga Merlini - perchedRifugio Cazzaniga Merlini
Left: On Trail 101_b on the west side of Zucco Barbesino.
Center and right: View of Rifugio Cazzaniga Merlini - closed when we visited.

Sentiero degli stradini - Piani di BobbioThe trail from Bocchetta dei Mughi to Rifugio Lecco - trail 101_b 2The trail from Bocchetta dei Mughi to Rifugio Lecco - trail 101_b
Left: Sentiero degli stradini.
Center and right: The trail from Bocchetta dei Mughi to Rifugio Lecco - trail 101_b 2.


Tracks for hike between Piani di Artavaggio and Piani di BobbioTrail from Bocchetta dei Murchi heading toward Rifugio LeccoTrail marker for 101
Left: Tracks showing the route taken.
Center: Trail 101_b under the Bocchetta dei Mughi.
Left: A trail marker for 101.

View east from trail 101 toward La Cornetta and ValtortaView from Bocchetta dei Mughi toward Gruppo delle GrigneView from Trail 101_b east toward La Cornetta
Left: View east from trail 101 toward La Cornetta and Valtorta.
Center: View from Bocchetta dei Mughi toward Gruppo delle Grigne.
Right: View from Trail 101_b east toward La Cornetta.

View over ValsassinaView southeast from Sentiero degli stradini
Views over Valsassina from the trail "Sentiero degli stradini".

Rifugio Casari - quick lunchRifugio Nicola - apple cake coffee break
Left: Rifugio Casari - quick lunch.
Right: Rifugio Nicola - apple cake coffee break.



Monday, August 14, 2023

A Hike to Monte Alben

The trail to the peak of Monte AlbenThe trail to the peak of Monte AlbenView from the peak of Monte Alben
Left and center: The trail to the peak of Monte Alben. Right: View form the peak looking south.

A beech tree illuminated by the sunA view east from the trail to Monte AlbenThe Orrido di Bracca
Left: A beech tree on the panoramic trail. Center: A rock window on Monte Alben looking east. Right: Driving to Cornalba through the Orrido di Bracca.

Duration: 8 hours (includes stop for lunch and stop for afternoon snack at Monte Alben)
Elevation: 1139 m (3737 ft)
Length: 15 km (9.3 mi)
Location: Italy, Bergamo, Cornalba

We picked this hike because we never had been to this rifugio or peak and decided to give it a try. It’s a beautiful area that the pictures on Google Maps don’t really do justice to. The Rifugio Monte Alben (1635 m) is a perfect spot for lunch, surrounded by Cima della Spada (1952 m) and Monte Alben (2020 m).

We arrived by car from Bergamo and parked (white spots only) in the center of the small town of Cornalba and started the walk up. There are two ways up. We went up Trail 503 and came back on a “panoramic trail” going around Corna Pradello (1608 m). Trail 503 is a classic hiking trail and pleasant as it is mostly covered until you reach the top. The panoramic trail we took back was not worth it. They were reconstructing parts of it and creating a very wide and boring trail in our opinion.

Once we broke through the tree covered part of the first part of trail 503 (around 1500 m) and into the upper pasture, it was just a matter of a few minutes more to get to Rifugio Monte Alben. At the rifugio, we picked a picnic table with two cousins at it and hand a wonderful conversation about language, food, and the local mines (famous for zinc). One of the cousins encouraged us to go to the peak of Monte Alben. He said it was easy.

It wasn’t exactly easy.

From the rifugio, you take Trail 502 to Passo la Forca (a pass at 1848 m) and then turn right to get to the peak at 2020 m. Up to the pass is easy, after that it’s a “sentiero per escursionisti esperti” (more skilled hikers). It requires a head for heights and being okay with narrow trails with sharp drop offs. Also, the trail requires a bit of arm work as you are climbing up and down and around boulders. One ½ of Travelmarx made it there frazzled and couldn’t wait to get back down.

There are a couple of ways to reach Cornalba by car. On the way is to drive through the Orrido di Bracca. (A orrido is a gorge.) Bracca is a popular bottled water brand, which is sourced from the hills around Bracca, or one would assume. In our young and crazy days just 7 years ago, we did a walk from San Pellegrino to Bracca. See A Hike Between San Pellegrino Terme (Ruspino) and Bracca.





Rifugio Monte AlbenAt Passo la ForcaBaita dol Gioan
Left: Rifugio Monte Alben. Center: La Forca pass. Right: Bivouac Gioan.

Rifugio Monte Alben - late afternoonRifugio Monte Alben - sausage and polentaRifugio Monte Alben arrosto and polentaRifugio Monte Alben - strudel
Eating at Rifugio Monte Alben.

Rifugio Monte Alben under the protection of Monte AlbenThe alpine meadows around Rifugio Monte AlbenAlpine pasture of Monte Alben
Pastures on the west side of Monte Alben.

Orientating compass roseThe Orrido di BraccaThe Orrido di BraccaTrack from Cornalba to Monte Alben
Left: The compass rose on top of Monte Alben. Center left and right: The Orrido di Bracca. Right: Tracks for this hike.

The peak of Monte AlbenThe trail to the peak of Monte AlbenThe trail to the peak of Monte Alben
Left: On top of Monte Alben. Center and right: The pinnacle formations of Monte Alben.

The trail to the peak of Monte AlbenThe trail to the peak of Monte AlbenHiking up to Rifugio Monte Alben on Trail 503
Left: The trail to Monte Alben requires some arm action. Center: Monte Alben trail. Right: Approaching Rifugio Monte Alben.

Trail 503 through forest on way up to Monte AlbenView from Monte AlbenView from trail to Monte Alben toward Monte della Spada
Left: The trail down low starts in forest. Center: View form Monte Alben looking west. Right: Look down in the pasture below Monte Alben.